Heston Blumenthal discovers scientific sherry and food pairings
Long time Sherry enthusiast Heston Blumenthal is attempting to relaunch his favourite tipple as the perfect wine to enjoy with food, after making surprising scientific discoveries about its molecular structure.
Together with Professor Don Mottram of Reading University, the molecular gastronomist discovered that dry Sherries hold a group of compounds known as diketopiperazines (DKPs) that can accentuate and carry the taste of some umami-rich foods, such as shitake mushrooms and Parmesan cheese.
Through looking at the compounds in these foods, Blumenthal could pair them with similar compound groups in Sherry, for instance a substance called eugenol was found in both Fino Sherry and cloves, making them a perfect match.
Blumenthal said: “Here we have scientific evidence to suggest what foodies across the globe have always known: that Sherry is a perfect wine to accompany food. And quite simply, Sherry gives these kinds of foods an extra dimension of pleasure.”
The Fat Duck chef has devised several recipes for matching with different kinds of Sherry, for example, a dry Fino pairs perfectly with Gruyere, Fino and clove fondue due to the DKPs present in the cheese, while the fresh tasting, peach-like Amontillado carried the taste of Pata Negra Ham, Peaches, Balsamic vinegar, Rocket and Marcona Almonds perfectly due to the compounds also found in those foods.
“One of the big revelations was trying an Amontillado with peach and it seemed to be that the Sherry made the peach more peach-like, which is amazing,” Blumenthal explained. “Its interesting, farmers and pig rearers actually use peach tree kernels for one of the classical cures for hams, so it’s a big tie back to what cooks and food producers have done intuitively over the years.”
Blumenthal’s aim is to debunk the myth that Sherry is a drink only to be enjoyed at Christmas or by grandparents, propelling it towards a classier, fashionable tipple to enjoy with food at any time.
Other pairings he discovered include Oloroso with smoked fish and coriander seed; pale cream with caramelised pork and quails egg; Manzanilla with crab and paprika; Palo Cortado with mango; and PX with custard and cream.
Blumenthal has also announced he will also be making investigations into the molecular structure of red and white wine in the future. His Bray restaurant was recently awarded 10/10 by the Good Food Guide, and is now the only UK restaurant to hold such a position.
