Pearls of Wisdom: Henry Harris

By Joe Lutrario

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Harvey nichols Chef

Henry Harris, owner of Racine
Henry Harris, owner of Racine
Henry Harris was chef at the Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols for 10 years before opening Racine – also in Knightsbridge – to widespread critical acclaim

Henry Harris was chef at the Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols for 10 years before opening Racine – also in Knightsbridge – to widespread critical acclaim.

I was going to be a barrister.​ I thought the idea of arguing for a living was sensational.

My ambitions changed when I saw how lucrative running a catering business could be. ​At the time, Brighton enjoyed a huge conference trade and my parents, who were running a small French restaurant, did well. The lifestyle also appealed – I wanted to work in hotels.

Culinology.​ Where did that come from? A lot of modern high-tech culinary methods – particularly at low temperatures – can create beautiful plates of consistent food. But you’re creating something a production unit could do, and it enables chefs to use a lower skills set. I want everyone in my kitchen to understand processes and tradition.

I was going to go to Swiss hotel school. ​To prepare, I worked as a commis waiter at one of Brighton’s big hotels. I didn’t last long – I’d grown up around good food and was disappointed at the hotel’s offering. But I did learn how to be a bloody good waiter.

There’s a strong element of comfort in my food.​ I don’t cook to brandish my culinary prowess around.

At 19, I got a job with Karl Loderer at Manley’s in Storrington.​ I started out serving the food, but, after watching him work in the kitchen, I soon ended up cooking.

I worked with Simon Hopkinson for eight years.​ Hilaire – Simon’s celebrated restaurant in Kensington – was the best time. There were only ever the two of us in the kitchen. I absorbed so much information over three years, it felt more like 10 years’ worth of work. His enthusiasm is infectious. I like to think I was Simon’s first protégé.

In the guide books, Simon credited me as being his head chef.​ He didn’t tell me at the time and I nearly cried when the book
came out in print.

At Harvey Nichols we could do 300 on a Saturday lunch in the run-up to Christmas.​ It was like being beaten and jailed altogether.

I made mistakes that make me cringe now:​ offering a risotto, a French dish and Asian ingredients on the same menu was the trend. We did it rather well though, which helped.

I now think that there needs to be a culinary identity.​ Restaurants should choose something and stick with it.

Racine wasn’t meant to attract the attention it did.​ Racine is the French for roots, and I had wanted to go back to mine.

Food is fiercely regional in France​ and maintains its cultural and culinary integrity.​I’ve never done a risotto at Racine, but I have
served pasta to children.

When I think of fine dining​ I think of grand, over-designed dining rooms conceived by a consultant who is never going to eat there.

I was lucky enough to go to El Bulli this year.​ It was wonderful, but I wouldn’t enjoy it nearly as much the second time. It was a singular experience.

When you’re working in a kitchen, you’re surrounded by people all the time​ and interaction is constant. Motorcycling, which I love, is solo – if you want to reach your destination alive you can’t think of anything else. It clears the mind.

Related news

Follow us

Hospitality Guides

View more

Generation Next