Industry leaders share tips at Development Chef Club Food Forum
Sponsored by Farm Frites UK, Nestle Professional and Rational, and organised by BigHospitality’s sister publication Restaurant Magazine, the event was an occasion for chefs to learn more about the recipe development process at various successful restaurants.
Kurobuta head chef Scott Hallsworth demonstrated the recipes for a Tokyo-style salmon sashimi and a beef tataki, and explained why adding western ingredients to Japanese recipes doesn’t mean compromising on authenticity. “When you go to Tokyo, chefs are always adding western ingredients to their dishes,” he said.
Former The Fat Duck development chef James ‘Jocky’ Petrie, who now works at Brett Graham’s The Ledbury in Notting Hill, compared his experiences, pointing out that the development window is ‘much shorter’ at The Ledbury, due to the restaurant’s focus on seasonality.
Whiting & Hammond executive chef James Moyle Rosser then took the stage to show how to make the most of cheaper cuts of meat, demonstrating a braised ox cheek with pancetta-infused mash and bourguignon sauce. He talked about the brand’s apprenticeship scheme, saying: “We had to do our bit to put chefs into the industry.”
Rosser also expressed his opinion on using cheap wine for cooking: “If you’re not willing to drink it, you shouldn’t be willing to cook with it,” he said.
It was then time for Salt Yard Group’s Ben Tish to give the audience a masterclass on rustic Spanish and Italian cooking, and explains how he ensures standards remain high across his kitchens.
In the afternoon, Le Bistrot Pierre’s director of food development, Ajay Barak, talked about creating an affordable French menu and adjusting French recipes for a British audience. Among the dishes the brand modified following market research was cassoulet, for which the restaurants use less beans, and present on the side of duck confit.
For Cinnamon Club founder Vivek Singh, adapting Indian cuisine for British diners is an easier feat due to the nation’s love of Indian food. He demonstrated a lamb rogan josh shepherd’s pie that delighted the audience.
Finally, Hakkasan Group executive pastry chef Graham Hornigold shared the secrets to achieving 50 per cent dessert sales in a Chinese restaurant. He showed how to make Hakkasan’s signature tarte tatin, involving layers of thin apple sheets and five-spice caramel.
