The self-service concept originally asked diners to choose their own selection of beef, lamb, pork and chicken on a tray and pay according to its weight.
But critic Marina O’Loughlin said the system made her feel as if she had ‘regressed decades’ and was waiting to be served by ‘hair-netted school dinnerladies’.
Stoke House has now ditched the trays in favour of table service, and updated its menu with a selection of small plates including smoked bone marrow with pickled shallots; prawn cocktail with bloody mary sauce; and smokehouse salmon with dill crème fraiche and seeded crackers.
There are also new sandwiches served from 12-6pm, ranging from pork collar brioche with crackling, fennel slaw and apple sauce to rare Cornish rump sandwich with chilli mayo and pickles.
A press release announcing the update said ‘change is no bad thing’.
O'Loughlin tweeted that the revamp sounded like a '100% improvement'.
Stoke House is the brainchild of London restaurateur Will Ricker, whose portfolio includes La Bodega Negra and XO.