How I Got Here: Martha Ortiz

By James McAllister

- Last updated on GMT

How I Got Here with Ella Canta restaurant chef patron Martha Ortiz

Related tags Mexican cuisine Restaurant London Hotel Chef

High-profile Mexican chef and food writer Martha Ortiz made her international debut in 2017 with the launch of Ella Canta within the Intercontinental London hotel on Park Lane.

Why restaurants?
Restaurants are like theatres. They are arenas for creativity that use different elements and ingredients to build extraordinary productions. I have always loved the theatrical and this can be seen in many of my dishes in Ella Canta.

Tell us something you wish you had been told at the start of your career?
That it was going to be very hard and will require both a strong physical and internal strength.

What do you do in your spare time?
I love to go to museums, the theatre, and the opera. I love to engage myself in cultural experiences that then feed my inspiration in my restaurants. They are a meal for the mind and the soul; through looking at artistic creations of others, I feel bewitched and ready to create.

What’s your favourite restaurant or group of restaurants (besides your current one)?
I find Enrique Olivera’s restaurants are brilliant. In both Cosme and Pujol, he has such a vision and is very detail orientated and thoughtful about the dishes. 

What would you be doing if you weren’t in restaurants?
I would be a curator of a museum. Surrounded by all the beautiful maestros and stunning artefacts, absorbing all their creativity.

What motivates you?
Motivation is a recipe that contains many different ingredients. For me a key motivation is to represent women and set an example and precedent for future generations to come. I believe in women, I believe in their power. I love to give them opportunities, I love to learn from other women. I believe that we can do it better. ​ It is also about honouring Mexico, representing my country in the best way that I can; exploring the different flavours of the regions and showcasing them to the world. Finally, the high standards that I hold for myself are also a key motivation; I want to ensure I am consistently proud of myself.

Where was your last holiday?
My last holiday was about six months ago in Mayakoba with my brother. It is a beautiful part of Mexico on the coast.

Which colleague, mentor or employer has had the biggest influence on your approach to the restaurant business?
Dominque Crenn, I have a huge appreciation and utmost respect for. She is a heroine of cooking; the first woman with three Michelin stars. She has such a healthy approach to restaurants with the three different outposts. She continues to cook and serve food in the way she wants to, never changing despite her fame.

What keeps you up at night?
Reflections on work. I tend to go through and revise the day, reflecting on how I have acted as a leader, a chef, a citizen of Mexico, and what I can do to improve. 

Worst business decision?
I do not have any regrets as I feel that each mistake I have made has helped me to grow and develop into what I have been able to build today. In retrospect there is always something to be learnt. 

Best business decision?
My new restaurant Filigrana in Roma, Mexico City. It is very easy going, high quality food in a beautiful setting, which seems to be exactly what people want. 

What are you reading at the moment?
I am reading some financial papers recommended by my brother from Harvard Business School. They are fascinating and very insightful.

What piece of advice would you give to those looking to climb the rungs in the business?
I would suggest that one should start with an idea of an entire concept. Rather than just a restaurant, it helps to have a full conceptual idea that can then be grown and evolve into different elements. I would also encourage them not to be afraid of spending emotional energy on the project, giving it the time to grow. 

If you could change one thing about the restaurant industry today, what would it be?
To have more women in the restaurant industry, making the ratio equal women and men. I want women to break the ‘caramel’ ceiling.

Bio

I was raised in Northern Mexico; my father was a doctor, and my was mother an artist. I was inspired to become a chef at an early age, because of the dinner parties that my parents used to throw. However, I studied political science at ITAM University, following that I travelled to Hong Kong and Paris, France, where I worked in professional kitchens. It was then that I decided that she wanted to learn more about Mexican cuisine, and travelled around my home country learning recipes and techniques.

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