Latest opening: Fork
What: A small, considered restaurant in the East Sussex market town of Lewes. Close to the station in the Grade II building that was most recently home to Limetree Kitchen, Fork may be small in stature but it’s a big deal for Lewes. The town hasn’t had an ambitious indie for some time despite having all the ingredients to sustain one, not least an affluent demographic that’s fiercely supportive of independent businesses, a thriving wider food and drink scene and out-of-town visitors aplenty.
Who: Fork is the debut solo restaurant for Richard Falk, whose CV includes five years at Robin Gill’s influential Clapham restaurant The Dairy (he left as head chef) plus stints at The Ledbury and D&D London’s Sauterelle and The Royal Exchange Grand Cafe, which were both overseen by Gill at the time. Falk’s business partner is Stephen Yeomans of interior design agency Yeomans Design.
The vibe: The 2,000 sq ft site has a modern and minimal feel that creates an impression of spaciousness despite the building’s tight proportions. The left side of the restaurant is home to a small bar and a fully-open kitchen with the right hand side given over to seating. The overall look strikes a good balance between utility and elegance, with wood-clad walls, bespoke wooden seating and table tops, terracotta tile flooring and a stainless steel-clad kitchen counter with a few stools for walk-ins. There’s also an attractive walled garden to the rear of the property with space for a further 10 covers when weather permits.
The food: Fork is billed as a modern interpretation of a traditional neighbourhood restaurant serving a modern British menu that’s ‘innovative yet accessible’. This description is on the money, with Falk successfully walking the tightrope of designing a menu that’s special enough to get people interested but not so fancy and special occasions-orientated it discourages repeat custom. Dishes on the evening menu include pork terrine with pickles; courgettes, peas and broad beans with smoked potato, tahini and warm spices; brill roasted over coal, IPA and sorrel and cabbage; and English strawberries with whipped yogurt, elderflower and feuilletine. The lunch offer is a far simpler affair with a focus on sandwiches, salads and house-baked goods including a top-notch sausage roll. The drinks menu is small but well chosen, with most of its real estate given over to simple cocktails, English sparklers and beer from local breweries including new Lewes brewer Beak. Fork certainly can't be accused of 'London pricing' either, with glasses of wine starting at £4.75 and still wine topping out at £40 a bottle.
And another thing: To his credit Falk has not gone in all guns blazing, instead setting out his stall with an affordable-yet-high-quality menu in the evening (starters are £6 and mains range from £13 to £18) and an even more accessible offering at lunchtime (he even serves a generous bowl of chips). This refreshing lack of ego and policy of giving customers what they want will put Fork in good stead as it looks to build up its menu - currently there are just three starters and three mains available in the evening - and gradually increase the complexity of its offer, which given its chef patron's CV is surely the plan. Falk may be playing it fairly safe for the moment, but Fork is unquestionably the restaurant Lewes has been waiting for and could well pave the way for more chef-led ventures.
