Latest opening: Fallow
What: A permanent location for the once pop-up restaurant that has opened in London's St James's Market. Fallow was originally established during a two-week pop up at Carousel in Fitzrovia in 2019 and in March 2020 it launched as a 12-week pop-up at rotating residency restaurant 10 Heddon Street, which was subsequently extended due to the Covid-19 lockdowns. Its time at Heddon Street eventually came to an end last month, having received a Michelin Bib Gourmand during its tenure there.
Who: Fallow was founded by former Dinner by Heston Blumenthal chefs Will Murray and Jack Croft, alongside chairman James Robson. Murray and Croft's culinary approach is billed as being 'sustainably focused', which they intend to double down on in their new home. Produce will be sourced from across the UK, with much of it coming from the pair's own small holding near Esher. There will also be particular focus on whole animal butchery, with the kitchen downstairs boasting a dry ageing room.
The food: The move to St James's Market means a much bigger kitchen, and in turn a bigger menu. The à la carte is split into six sections including snacks, raw bar, breads, main plates, grill and sides, with all dishes intended for sharing. 'Signatures' from the Heddon Street residency feature across the menu, including the corn ribs with kombu seasoning; mushroom parfait with shiitake and truffle; fallow deer tartare with potato and chive; and cod’s head covered in homemade sriracha butter sauce. The raw bar also serves British and Irish oysters; and a scallop tartare with dulse and lemon. The grill section has perhaps seen the largest number of additions: Murray and Croft are advocates of championing retired dairy animals grazed on pasture, with the pair only buying whole carcasses and serving rotating cuts such as dairy cow sirloin steak; cull ewe mutton chop; lamb tongue; venison with hen of the wood and kalibos; and whole lobster with 'head sauce'. Chef Anna Williams, previously head pastry chef at Dinner by Heston, has joined the team to oversee desserts. Options include Chelsea tart with caramelised whey amde using leftover whey from Kappacasein Dairy; and sourdough soft serve made from surplus bread. Prices are broadly in line with what they were at Heddon Street, with smaller plates primarily ranging from £5 to £10; and larger plates rising to £32 at the top end.
The drink: Each dessert can be paired with a cocktail such as an 'Anglo colada', made using British ingredients such as cold pressed apple juice and fig leaves, but mimicking the flavour of a piña colada. Wines will lean towards biodynamic bottles and are sourced as close to home as possible, with a large selection from the UK and the rest no further than Europe. Fallow will also be barrelling its own wine with London-based Renegade Urban Winery, made with pinot noir organic grapes and hand processed by the restaurant's team.
The vibe: Fallow’s approach to reducing waste will also be mirrored in the décor. The design, headed up by Christina Leung and Timothy Tan of Studio Gossamer, has reused and repurposed many existing fixtures to give them a fresh new look. Walls are clad using a terrazzo-style shellfish panel, using leftover oyster and mussel shells accrued from the Heddon Street residency; while a 'rotating mushroom wall' features six varieties of Isle of Wight mushrooms. Like the kitchen, the restaurant is significantly larger than at Heddon Street, with 150 covers in total including a 65-cover dining room with a bar, wraparound terrace, and six-seater chef’s counter overlooking the open kitchen.
And another thing: The 10 Heddon Street site is proving to be a successful incubator for new concepts. Chris Leach and David Carter are also preparing to launch Manteca, their first permanent restaurant this month, having first been established it at the Mayfair location. Next up to takeover the space is Ferdinand ‘Budgie’ Montoya, who hopes to use the residency as launchpad to establish a permanent central London site for his new Sarap Filipino Bistro concept.
2 St James's Market, St. James's, London SW1Y 4RP
fallowrestaurant.com
