Flash-grilled: Henrik Ritzén

By James McAllister

- Last updated on GMT

Flash-grilled: Henrik Ritzén  Swedish chef who runs the stove at the Double Red Duke in the Cotswolds

Related tags Henrik Ritzén The Double Red Duke Hotel Gastro pub Restaurant

The Swedish chef, who runs the stove at the Double Red Duke in the Cotswolds, on making his peace with a bad review, Thomas Keller, and memories of Racine.

What was your first industry job?
My first proper job in hospitality was during the summer holidays between year two and year three when I was at chef school. I was 17, myself and my very good friend David were cooking in a small hotel on the island I grew up on as a child. It was great fun, but we didn’t really have a clue what we were doing, the kitchen was in a constant mess and there was a heavy use of microwave ovens.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
Not sure; but it would have to be something creative or something to do with repairing or fixing things as it’s something I find very relaxing.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Thomas Keller, I love his food philosophy and he’s been a great inspiration. Someone I wished I had worked for at some point.

Pet hate in the kitchen?
The wrong knife for the job.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
Can I have a medium rare steak, but rarer then medium with no blood.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Seasonal, honest, light, and full of flavour.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
Andy Hayler completely killed us at Aquavit, it was a hard read, but you’ve got to get through it and forget about it. At the end of the day, it was one guest’s opinion out of thousands…

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My labelling machine.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
A really good burger.

À la carte or tasting menu?
I would probably say à la carte, but it really depends where you are.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
I think I would have to say Asador Etxebarri, the most wonderful produce cooked to perfection in the most incredibly simple way in a very unassuming setting with breath-taking surroundings.

Favourite fast-food joint?
Five Guys.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
The hotdog.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?
GBM​.

Most overrated food?
Anything “Instagrammable”.

Restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
Unpaid overtime!

What’s your earliest food memory?
Walking into my Swedish grandma’s kitchen, being hit by the wonderful smell of freshly baked cinnamon buns, then to sit down at her kitchen table and eat as many as I could. All washed down with ice cold milk.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
When I went to eat at Racine with my family and a friend, the sous chef at the time, Paul Longworth, kept sending out excellent regional French dishes. I thought I was going to die of food overload.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
The pub.

Tipple of choice?
Gin and tonic, or a glass of red wine.

Favourite food and drink pairing?
Pickled herrings with Akvavit and a cold beer.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
Find a good kitchen where the chef cares about all aspects of the industry. It doesn’t have to be on the 100 best list or even have a Michelin star, the most important thing is that you like the food, the people you work with and that you are progressing and learning how to cook properly. Make sure to stay for at least two years, three is better, then you really have a chance of mastering all aspects of the kitchen and you will feel very confident in your cooking ability.

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