Flash-grilled: Henry Omereye
What was your first industry job?
It was in the prep kitchen at Harrods and I was there for about five years. It offered me great experience and was the perfect place to start my career.
If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
I think I’d probably be an artist as I’m quite good at drawing, or do something creative - there are a few similarities in both disciplines of being a chef and artist I’d say.
What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Marco Pierre White, as he gave me my first head chef job and because I learnt so much from him, particularly in the way he fairly led the team - I’ve tried to mirror these techniques in the way I run my own kitchen
Pet hate in the kitchen?
Laziness and lateness - running a tight ship in the kitchen is essential.
What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
A guest once came up to me at the kitchen pass after her meal to ask if I fancied cooking for her in her flat nearby... I politely declined.
Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
My cooking combines ingredients and flavours I’ve used throughout my career, in particular Caribbean and African flavours, to create hearty and elevated dishes that harness the best of a variety of cultures and cuisines
What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
I had one customer say that their fish was too fishy, and complain that their tuna tartare was raw!
À la carte or tasting menu?
Tasting menu as it normally has a good cross section of all of the best dishes on offer.
What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Beef wellington - it’s such a good dish when made correctly (with the meat tender, the right thickness of crepe and the pastry done just right).
Most overrated food?
Fish and chips - I just don’t get it; don’t understand the appeal!
Tipple of choice?
An old fashioned as it’s sweet and sharp, and I feel quite tipsy after just two glasses.
Favourite food and drink pairing?
It sounds strange, but it’d have to be a bowl of sweet popcorn with salted peanuts, washed down with a glass of Coca Cola. Growing up I used to put dry roasted unsalted peanuts inside my Coca Cola bottle and then drink it - the two go together surprisingly well
What do you consider your signature dish?
Right now, I’d say bajan fishcakes, but also roasted duck breast with cocoyam mash, plantain crisps and a fennel and cardamom jus.
Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
Nelson Mandela, Tupac Shakur, Barry White, Barack Obama and Kevin Hart.
What’s your earliest food memory?
Cooking with my mum growing up in Nigeria - she used to teach me different traditional African dishes such as jollof rice, stews and soups.
What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
Be prepared to work hard, and to make compromises in your social life.
Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
At work, my Kitchen Aid, as it has so many uses - for sauces, purees, it can whisk and mix and you can even use it for chopping. At home all I need is a good pan.
What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Something homely like fried chicken with a good gravy and coleslaw, or a very cheesy mac and cheese with onion gravy (one of my favourite dishes which features on the menus at the Riding House Cafés). For dessert I’d choose an apple crumble with vanilla ice cream or custard.
