Latest opening: Kachori
What: An upmarket-yet-casually-styled Indian restaurant in Elephant and Castle’s Elephant Park. Kachori takes its name from a deep-fried street food snack that’s a mainstay across the sub continent in various different guises. The menu is focused on Northern Indian food exploring the culinary traditions of regions including Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Delhi, and the Punjab.
Who: The project is being headed by Sorowar Khan, the restaurateur behind Indian restaurant Mango in nearby Borough but hospitality consultant Humayun Hussain is being billed as the 2,850sq ft site’s creator and project manager. The executive chef is Indian restaurant veteran Brinder Narula, whose CV includes senior roles at top Mayfair Indian restaurants Gymkhana and Benares, which both hold Michelin stars.
The vibe: Kachori is keen to establish itself as an all-day dining venue, a difficult yet - as Dishoom has proved - not impossible task for an Indian restaurant. As such the interior is light and modern in style with relatively subtle nods to the sub continental theme. The space has 132 covers in total - there’s a mix of indoor and outdoor seating - and overlooks the two-acre park that is the centrepiece of Lendlease’s Elephant Park development.
The food: Presented on a stout sheet of A3, Kachori’s menu is comprehensive and - as one would expect given the credentials of the chef at its helm - is far removed from those proffered at a bog standard curry house. Pricing is probably best described as premium casual with small plates averaging out at about £8 and big plates ranging from £15 to £21.50 but typically costing about £16. At £15.50, Khan’s generously-portioned chicken butter masala is an absolute bargain that would easily fetch twice that within his former W1 stomping ground. Other dishes include samosa chaat (£7.50); guinea fowl tikka (£8.95); lamb shank nihari (£21.50); and jackfruit biryani (£16.50). Brunch and breakfast menus are expected next month.
To drink: Still wines start at a - not unreasonable given the level the restaurant is pitched at - £25 and top out at £90. Cocktails include the Tandoori Sour (tandoor-infused whisky, amaretto, lime juice, jaggery syrup); and the Spicy Caipiroska (mango vodka, Beesou, spiced passion fruit jam, lemon).
And another thing: There’s no question that Kachori is good value when compared to Indian restaurants in more exclusive London postcodes. However, the price point is on the high side for the development, with Kachori’s neighbours including pizza and craft beer brand Four Hundred Rabbits, arcade bar Four Quarters and Mexican fusion brand Cheeky Chicos. It’s a bold play from Khan and Hussain but hopefully one that will pay off, with the Zone 1 area having enjoyed a renaissance in recent years following major investment.
