The Lowdown: KFC's omakase dining experience

By James McAllister

- Last updated on GMT

The Lowdown: KFC's omakase dining experience

Related tags Omakase Japanese cuisine KFC Fried chicken QSR Fast food

The Colonel has used the capital’s growing appetite for omakase restaurants as inspiration for the launch of its latest burger special.

So, it’s omaKFC… does that work?
I’ll leave that up to you. For those not in the know, omakase relates to a centuries-old Japanese concept whereby diners leave it up to the chef to select and serve seasonal specialties. It’s commonly associated with sushi restaurants, but now fast food giant KFC is using it as the basis for a launch event promoting its latest special​ – the Japanese-inspired teriyaki burger. 

What does it have planned?
The one-day only event, held on Friday 4 August, sees KFC’s London Waterloo restaurant transformed into an ‘intimate omakase restaurant’. Fans can take a seat at the ‘Colonel’s table’ for a limited-edition menu created by Tik Tok chef Akito Greenland for just £11, with all the proceeds going to The KFC Foundation.

What’s on the menu?
The six-course meal essentially repurposes elements of Japanese cuisine in a way that KFC describes as ‘playful’, although some may argue that it has a vague whiff of cultural appropriation. For example, the dish of yakitori here sees KFC Popcorn Chicken served on a bamboo skewer with teriyaki sauce, seemingly bypassing the grill entirely. Then there’s the KFC Karaage, crispy fried chicken coated in KFC’s signature seasoning and paired with ponzu; and the mini chicken fillet nigiri, which traditionally relates to a type of sushi but here features a mini chicken fillet on a bed of sushi rice and finished with a brushstroke of wasabi-infused garlic buttermilk mayonnaise. Of course, the whole thing culminates with one of the new teriyaki burgers, which sees a KFC Original Recipe chicken fillet served in a brioche bun with pickled slaw and teriyaki sauce.

Can this credibly be described as an omakase experience?
Not in the true sense of the word. But then again, KFC isn’t trying to position this as an authentic omakase experience, and instead describes itself as ‘taking inspiration from the ever-growing Japanese trend of omakase’. And while some may baulk at the omakase being described as a trend, it does highlight the proliferation of omakase restaurants in the capital. In the past year or two the likes of Roji, RAI, Taku and Mayha have opened in London offering daily-changing menus that combine a range of Japanese-inspired meat and seafood dishes, including sushi. Perhaps the most high-profile new entrant within the space is the recently launched Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane, which has been developed by high-profile Japanese sushi chef Shinji Kanesaka and serves a 20-course menu that costs around £400.

What have learnt from this?
This one-off meal highlights the lengths the fast food giants are going to add a bit of novelty to their offer. Whether it be Subway’s New Way to Subway menu or Burger King’s tie-up with crisp brand Doritos, or Greggs launching into Primark stores, you can’t knock the big boys for thinking outside the burger box.

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