Latest opening: Mriya
What: A self-described Ukrainian 'neo bistro' that's just launched on Brompton Road in London's Chelsea. Called Mriya, which translates to mean 'dream' in Ukrainian, the restaurant is intended to become a 'cultural embassy' of Ukraine in London, showcasing its food, design, art and drink.
Who: Mriya is the first restaurant venture from prominent Ukrainian chef Yurii Kovryzhenko and his partner Olga Tsybytovska, who found themselves stranded in London following Russia's invasion of Ukraine earlier this year. Kovryzhenko was previously a 'culinary ambassador' for Ukraine and was in London promoting his country's national gastronomy when Russia launched its invasion of his country back in February. Choosing to stay, he and Tsybytovska became actively involved in charitable activities to raise funds for Ukraine. Over the following four months, Kovryzhenko held more than 20 charity dinners and raised around £400,000. Kovryzhenko leads the kitchen at Mriya, while Tsybytovska oversees the front of house.
The food: Kovryzhenko's menu combines Ukrainian gastronomic heritage including elements of pickling and fermenting with French cooking techniques, described by the chef as 'Ukrainian haute cuisine'. There are 24 dishes in total, split between starters, salads, soups, main courses and desserts. Those who are less au fait with Ukrainian cuisine may find there isn't much on the menu that's familiar, although recognisable heritage dishes including borsch and chicken Kyiv do feature. Other dishes, meanwhile, include zucchini pancakes with stracciatella and smoked trout; oxtail 'holodets' with horseradish; roots salad with strawberry, green pea mousse and crawfish tails; beef rolls with prunes, buckwheat and mushroom sauce; wheat with ceps, herbs and beef tongue steak or celeriac steak; and pearl barley risotto with seafood and red cabbage, miso sauce. There are also desserts such as honey cake; and apple cake with nuts crumble and honey. Given the restaurant's SW5 postcode, prices are arguably kept very accessible, with smaller plates ranging from £10 to £15, and larger dishes hovering around the £25 mark.
The drink: The wine list for Mriya has been compiled by the sommelier of Corrigan's Mayfair, Ukrainian Dmytro Goncharuk, and comprises notable Ukrainian wines including a number of bins that have been sourced from Beykush winery, located in the Mykolaiv region, which is currently suffering from shelling. Mriya also offers guests the unique opportunity to try Berryland cider, whose award-winning cider house near the city of Irpin in the Kyiv region was completely destroyed by Russian forces in the first days of the war. The last supplies of cider from the warehouses were delivered specifically for Mriya.
The vibe: The design of the 60-cover dining room was developed by the Ukrainian architectural agency Replus Bureau. Products of modern Ukrainian industrial designers, pieces of art, as well as authentic century-old furniture and decor from the architectural salvage workshop Restare were delivered from Ukraine to London specifically for the restaurant. Among other things, a 19th-century chest of drawers, once found in an abandoned house in the city of Lviv, is being used as a waiter's desk.
And another thing: Mriya is staffed entirely by Ukrainian refugees, nearly all of whom came to London to seek shelter after the Russia invasion. The 15-strong restaurant team consist of chefs, confectioners, former lawyers, teachers, entrepreneurs, managers, and university students.
275 Old Brompton Rd, London SW5 9JA
www.instagram.com/mriya_neo_bistro
