Uncorked: Cameron Dewar
When did you first became interested in wine?
I had just relocated from Melbourne to London and was working at Viajante [in Bethnal Green]. At the time it was a true melting pot of ideas and enthusiasm and it was here that I first tasted true terroir expressive wine, produced naturally but with a sense of elegance. From there I was hooked.
Tell us about your wine list
Retan is the culmination of classical ideas and more eccentric philosophies, to create a balance that understands the root of terroir and what makes wines expressive. I’m always searching for characters and ‘drinkability.’ My list is always organic, biodynamic, or naturally farmed but I’m not one to follow certifications. While wild fermentation is a must for me, I also believe that you need to be hyper clinical and focused in the cellar to make pure, clean wine with minimal to no additives.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
As a junior sommelier just starting off I had a very awkward moment with a table where I served them three straight corked wines without realising they we’re corked. They asked for someone else to serve them… (rightly!). This was the day I found out I’m not cork sensitive and have been ever vigilant since.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Sager + Wilde, Levan (the best Jura selection at good prices! I’ll always be back), and Septime in Paris.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Jeff Coutelou. He is a small natural wine maker in a sea of mass production just outside of Bezier, in southern France. He’s a cult hero and a legend of Languedoc. He also took me into his home for three months, teaching me more than I could have ever learn in a book. He taught me about terroir wine making but most importantly his philosophy - it was a life affirming time for me.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
A 1996 Silver Wings Late Disgorged Grand Reserve XO. I was fortunate to taste this working at Attica, a long lees aged, late disgorged sparkling wine from Macedon Ranges in Victoria. It was from a very small contract wine maker called Silver Wings, about 20 years aged before disgorged and it had this amazing richness that made me think of fried egg and ketchup (odd but delicious!) but still had this super vibrant and focused acidity that kept your palate fresh. It wasn’t champagne, something else massively alluring and surprising.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Fresh, juicy, and fruity.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Domaine De Courbissac, Minervois 'Les Traverses' Languedoc France, which is on at £42. To me this is one of those under the radar, characterful, interesting yet very drinkable wines where it just sings straight out of the glass. It’s autumn and our Salt Marsh Lamb dish loves the peppery, gamey undertones but still vibrant fruit of this wine.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Vintage aged madeira and 36 month comte. Both have a richness and development of flavour but the crunchy saltiness of the cheese against the acidity of the madiera keep me going back.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Being told what I should drink that they like rather than having a chat and being recommended something I would like.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
Les Granges Pâquenesses. I just love the wines, they are so pure and clean. Every bottle I have had is full of personality, definition, showcasing the clay-limestone with a sense of balance that is hard to come by. She doesn’t fine or filter, but the wines are always pristine, which for me show the dedication to her craft.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Probably the one I get the most is 'what’s your favourite wine on the list?' But I would say I normally like to have a wine to match my mood and meal so it really depends on the day.
Which wine producing region/country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Portugal It has many unique regions and a wide range of grapes. A new generation of producers are creating fresher more characterful wines.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
David Leclapart, L’Apôtre Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs. This is a single vineyard vintage champagne from my favourite champagne producer. Champagne keeps your palate fresh so I could eat whatever I want with it too. I’ve had a couple in my time, always delicious and if I’m on the way out the door I’d like it one last time.
