How I Got Here: Mary Wilson

By James McAllister

- Last updated on GMT

Mary Wilson co-owner of Bristol restaurant Wilsons on her career

Related tags Restaurant Bristol

The co-owner of Bristol restaurant Wilson's on how to make the industry more inclusive, focusing on your business mission, and how St. John has influenced her career.

Why restaurants?  
My parents owned a restaurant in London when I was growing up. I’ve always felt confident and comfortable in restaurants, and really enjoyed being in them, whether it’s as a customer or a member of staff. When its right, being in a restaurant is so fun and exciting.

Tell us something you wish you had been told at the start of your career?
When I first started working in restaurants there were certainly times when the environment I was working in made me feel uncomfortable, sometimes the way I was spoken to or treated by other people was totally unacceptable. I wish there had been affirmation that yes, it was in fact as unacceptable as I felt it was! I’m glad it’s something the industry as whole seems to be far more aware of now and that an industry that often gets referred to as toxic, is certainly changing.

What’s your favourite restaurant or group of restaurants?
St. John! Absolutely everything from the knowledgeable and passionate staff to their philosophy. I was 18 the first time I ate there. I still refer back to St. John, simple because they’ve been so influential in the modern British restaurant industry.

What motivates you?
Sustainability, respect, equality and FUN.

What keeps you up at night?  
The balancing act. Sticking to our ethics. The weather. Watering the polytunnels! Slugs. My children. And… trying to ignore all the catastrophic things going on in the world.

Which colleague, mentor or employer has had the biggest influence on your approach to the restaurant business?
I’ve learnt a huge amount from everyone I’ve worked with/for, in restaurants and in farming. There’s so much you can take away from seemingly insignificant experiences. I always find myself saying “someone I worked with once…” or “when I worked here we used to…”.

What time do you wake up?
5:45am.

Coffee or tea? 
Tea, another tea, and then coffee.

How do you let off steam?
A massive bath and an early night.

Typical Sunday?
Walks with the kids, seeing friends, lying down watching films.

Favourite holiday destination?
Portugal.

What are you currently reading?
A long petal of the sea​ by Isabelle Allende.

What's been your best business decision?
To keep the business small, humble and running within our means.

And the worst?
In the past, particularly when we first started the business, we worried too much about what other people were doing, and with social media being so prevalent it can start to influence the way in which you do things or the choices you make, and potentially set you off course a little. We have waivered and wobbled a couple of times, but in all honesty, everything has led us to where we are now - to a place we feel proud of - so I can’t really look back and pinpoint any particular thing that has been a bad decision. It’s all just swings and roundabouts.

What piece of advice would you give to those looking to climb the rungs in the business?
Your business and brand is reliant on your staff, so look after them, and, your customers are spending their hard earned money to have a great experience that deserves respect. Also, take time to pause, regain focus on your mission, and to remember what you’re about. You won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, and that is totally ok.

If you could change one thing about the restaurant industry today, what would it be?
In a lot of industries (especially the restaurant and farming world), it’s common place for people to work for free in some of the top restaurants around the world to gain experience. Unfortunately, this means that good experience is only available to those who can support themselves whilst working for free, so it really narrows down who can enter the restaurant industry. It becomes a little elitist and exclusive. It’s something I do see changing, but we need to make the industry more inclusive for all.

Bio

Born in London, Wilson studied at Capel Manor horticultural college, and later at the Biodynamic Agricultural College. Her early career saw her work at The Island pub and dining room in Kensal Rise, as well as for Clifton Nurseries garden centre. Wilson launched Wilson's with her partner, Jan Ostle, in Bristol in 2016. In 2019, the pair also launched Wilson's Market Garden, which Wilson oversees as grower, owner and director.

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