Flash-grilled: Grace Bryson

By James McAllister

- Last updated on GMT

Grace Bryson head chef at London Shell Co

Related tags Grace Bryson Chef Restaurant London Shell Co.

The head chef at London Shell Co.'s new seafood bar in Highgate on wanting to cook for Anthony Bourdain, chefs using unnecessary crunchy things, and putting Maltesers in red wine

What was your first industry job?
I worked at Salon in Brixton when I was still at college. It's closed now but they’ve got another two sites in Peckham and one in Somerset.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
I’d like to think I’d still be doing something creative. I’ve always loved film so maybe I would’ve tried to get into that industry.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Between them Fergus and Margot Henderson have created two of my favourite restaurants in St John and Rochelle Canteen. I’ve never had a bad experience at either place. Their style is so influential to so many people, especially in London.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
Cowboys. I can’t stand it when people are disorganised.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
“Oh my gaaad, it smells like calamari!” I don’t know why but it really made us laugh.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Simple techniques that highlight quality ingredients.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
Choose who you work with carefully and as soon as a job gets easy move on and find someone new to learn from. If a restaurant you’re interested in isn’t advertising then get in touch anyway, you never know.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
A food processor is essential.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Bone marrow on toast followed by whole mackerel cooked over fire. There’s something about oily fish cooked over fire that just takes it to a whole new level.

À la carte or tasting menu?
A la carte every time.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
I went to Inver in Scotland a few years ago and had venison sausages with coco beans and chanterelles. Everything about it was delicious and it didn’t hurt that the view was so special.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?
Beigel Bake on Brick Lane. I used to go out in Shoreditch a lot when I was younger and we would always go there for there afterwards.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Jeremy Lee’s smoked eel sandwich: it's so simple and has become so iconic.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?
Great British Menu.

What’s the most overrated food?
Truffle. The fresh stuff is fine but not worth the hassle of getting it and the oil and paste just smell like petrol.

You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
Unnecessary crunchy things. We’ve been taught to think that we need to have something crunchy on every dish but sometimes it just gives you something to hide behind.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
Anthony Bourdain. He lived such an incredible life and was a real loss to the world.

What’s your earliest food memory?
My mum worked in a cheese shop when I was very small and I remember wandering around with a piece of cheese or the chewy top layer of a side of smoked salmon to gnaw on.

Twitter or Instagram?
Instagram. I’m not very active but it’s a good way to keep up with what’s going on in the industry.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
I used to kayak a lot and had a few bad days on the river. The one that comes to mind is being pinned under water by a tree root in the Scottish Highlands. I was put off the sport for a while after that but I’ve been getting back into it again recently.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
I’m more likely to go for a boozy lunch than out on the town these days. There’s a group of people I’ve worked with over the years who all go out for lunch together when we can.

What’s your tipple of choice?
It depends how I’m feeling but gin and tonic is probably my go to.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
Red wine and Maltesers. Don’t come at me sommeliers, you drop a Malteser in the wine and eat it when you’ve finished the glass.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?
I’m just about to start my first job as head chef at London Shell Co at Swain’s Lane, so I don’t really know yet. Maybe ask me again in six months.

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