Latest opening: Mistress
What: A Parisian inspired restaurant and members lounge located on the corner of Piccadilly and St. James’s Street, beneath Caviar House.
Who: Details of the restaurant’s ownership at scarce, but the restaurant’s general manager is Sotiris Sakkas, whose previous roles include general manager positions at The Wolseley Hospitality Group, Nikita Mayfair, and Shoreditch Townhouse, and the consultant executive chef is Mark Morrans.
The food: The menu at Mistress is taut and perfectly formed and include classic, big flavour elevated bistro dishes as well as a few other surprises befitting of its Mayfair postcode and glamourous positioning. Diners can choose to kick off a meal in style with an oscietra caviar and blinis or a lobster roll or head straight to ‘cold & raw’ section. Here dishes include king crab with smoked tomato and puffed black rice; oysters served in the classic style or ‘nouveau – with champagne granita and pickled apple; steak tartare; and octopus carpaccio. A wider selection is given over to hot dishes, including six seafood options – grilled jumbo prawns; lobster linguine; scallops; sole meuniere; gratinated king crab leg; and seabass duglere – and meat options such as grilled poussin; and ribeye steak – both served with fries; smoked duck breast; and lamb cutlets. Desserts are tres chic and include a crème brulee; apple tart tatin; and opera cake alongside a selection of petit fours and ice cream and sorbet in flavours including vanilla, hazelnut, chocolate, orange, apple, lemon, and raspberry.
To drink: Champagne and wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux dominate the French-leaning list although wines from Italy and Spain get a small look in as well as some big hitting ‘rest of the world’ options that include Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc; Freemark Abbey chardonnay; and a T-Oinos assyrtiko. There are around seven to nine wines by the glass for red and white with a slightly smaller selection for sweet and champagne – which comes courtesy of a roaming champagne trolley. Cocktails are taken seriously, with the list divided into signature and classic cocktails. Concoctions in the former selection include the Vielles Habitudes made with Bacardi Ocho, Bacardi Caribbean, Campari, Vermouth Martini Reserva, pineapple juice, and Franklin and Sons’ ginger beer; and the Riviera Punch that combines Amàzzoni gin, St Germain liqueur, lime juice, Eager apple juice, and fresh cucumber. The spirits list is equally accommodating with a large selection of tequilas, mezcal, cognac, Scottish, American and Japanese whiskies; rum, vodka, and gin on offer. The restaurant’s website doesn’t currently list prices so come with an open mind and equally open wallet.
The vibe: There is nothing subtle about Mistress’ interior, which has been inspired by the clandestine tunnels where ‘ladies of the night were smuggled at the behest of the male members of White’s private club’. If this all sounds a bit seedy, the reality is something far from it. The opulent interior is way more classy than girl call and combines deep red and pinks with plush velvet materials for the tasselled tub and banquette seating, a deep-pile carpet and curtains throughout. The venue has a hushed members’ club feel with individual lights on starched white tablecloth covered tables but also of something a bit more raucous thanks to a feature mirrored ceiling from which hang a number of chandeliers. The mood changes as the evening progresses with Mistress home to resident DJs that spin funk, soul and disco house with entry after 11pm strictly for members only.
And another thing: Bills at Mistress include a modest optional 10% service charge, but also a 5% entertainment fee.
48-49 St James Street, London, SW1A 1JT
https://www.mistressofmayfair.com/
