Uncorked: Natalia Kozlowska
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I fell into wine while living in France over 25 years ago. My friends were very passionate about the wine and I caught their bug. I ended up working in the vineyards and wineries of southwest France.
Describe your wine list
My current wine list is around 600 bins and is mainly based on European regions. It combines the classic, iconic wines with the new generation of European producers who focus on sustainability, biodiversity and preserving and re-establishing whole ecosystems. You can find comprehensive Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux sections, with Italy, Germany and Austria also quite strong.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I once received a case of a mature vintage of an iconic wine for a high profile event. Most of the 12 bottles were badly corked. Luckily we survived the disaster as guests did not drink that much that evening so we had enough bottles that were good to make it a success.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Core by Clare Smith, Trivet and KOL (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Everybody who promotes sustainability and has holistic and natural approach to wine production.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Sauvignon Blanc, Wachstum König, Styria, Austria, but there are many others.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Dry, mineral and elegant.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
2011 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5ème Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac at £170. Beautiful, classic Pauillac that is drinking extremely well at the moment.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Caviar and vodka. I also love mature red Burgundy with truffle dishes and white Burgundy with crustacean dishes.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Lack of knowledge of the wine list, and recommendation based purely on the price and personal preference. I think there is a real shortage of knowledgeable sommeliers and people do not stay long enough in the job to learn it properly.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Christian Tschida is making wines of highest purity, precision and vibrancy.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
What is your favourite wine?
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment
Valle D`Aosta, Valtellina, Auvergne, Roussillon, Greece, Georgia. These places offer a tremendous quality-price ratio and are capable of producing excellent terroir wines.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A magnum of 1996 Henri Jayer, Clos Parantoux, Vosne-Romanée for its finesse and complexity. I love red Burgundy.
