Latest opening: Macellaio RC Store Street

By Joe Lutrario contact

- Last updated on GMT

Macellaio RC Store Street

Related tags: Italian cuisine, Casual dining, Steak, Macellaio RC

Roberto Costa's fifth London site specialises in magnums and pizza, but Macellaio's high quality Fassone beef remains the star of the show.

What:​ The latest restaurant from Italian beef specialist Macellaio RC. The now six-strong brand has taken on a former Byron on Store Street, which is a few minutes’ walk away from restaurant hotspot Charlotte Street (nearby operators include Busaba Eathai and Bao).

Who:​ Roberto Costa, the grandson of a famous Genoese butcher. He opened the first Macellaio way back in 2002 in his native Liguria and opened a further 15 sites in Italy before bringing the concept to London in 2012 (he became disassociated with the original restaurants in Italy but recently opened a Macellaio in Milan).

The vibe:​ Macellaio's fifth London restaurant is somewhat awkwardly arranged with two seating areas and a tiny semi-open kitchen. Despite the constraints of the L-shaped space, Costa has managed to squeeze in a large meat aging fridge and a butcher’s counter (theatre is a big part of the Macellaio experience; the butchers at its Union Street restaurant prepare meat on a stage). Waiting staff are dressed in boiler suits, a nod to the building's former use at The Duke of Bedford’s filling station. The slightly chaotic and idiosyncratic nature of the experience makes it feel authentically Italian.

The food:​ Like the other sites, the star of the show is Macellaio’s Fassona beef, which is butchered and dry-aged on-site. Sourced from Piedmont, the breed is huge and comically muscly, the result of a mutation that provides a higher lean-to-fat ratio, as well as less marbling and less connective tissue. The meat is available raw is tartares and carpaccios and in large steaks to share including rib-eye on the bone and bistecca Fiorentina (T-bone).

To drink:​ Costa imports his wine from Italy directly, allowing him to offer hard-to-find wines at relatively accessible prices. Store Street offers a more condensed wine list than the rest of the group that’s focused on magnums, although many are available by the carafe too.


And another thing:​ Macellaio differentiate its offer at each site. Its Exmouth Market restaurant is big on fresh tuna, its Southwark restaurant has within it a traditional Ligurian bakery and the Store Street site has gone for pizza. Options include Jack and the Beanstalk (charcoal-grilled vegetables, tomato sauce and herb-infused oil) and Ice Ice Baby (pecorino and black pepper). The latter is topped with ice before cooking to "guarantee a soft centre and crispy outer crust".


Related topics: Openings, Casual Dining

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