Latest opening: Gunpowder Soho
What: A third restaurant under the Gunpowder brand and the company’s first move into central London following a successful debut in Spitalifields and a follow up in Tower Bridge.
Who: Husband and wife team Harneet Baweja and Devina Seth are behind the restaurant, which promises ‘explosive flavours from modern India’ (hence the name) and which draws inspiration from generations of family recipes collected by the couple as well as Baweja’s childhood experiences growing up in India and his travels across the country.
The food: As with the other two restaurants, Gunpowder Soho has an emphasis on sharing with dishes that have appeared on the menu previously – not least the Kashmiri lamb chops; the spicy venison and vermicelli doughnut and Karwari soft shell crab - as well as new additions. New dishes include whole Telicherry mackerel with raw mango chutney; a half lobster served with rice pancakes (pictured below); and a take on the classic prawn toast that is surprisingly close to the original despite the Indian restaurant setting. By comparison to the large selection of small plates and sharing plates, the dessert offer runs to just two items: a rum bread and butter pudding and a dark chocolate, cinnamon, passion fruit shrikhand with almond chikki. The restaurant currently offers a festive feast menu for £45 or £70 per person depending on size and a pre-theatre menu of two or three courses for £18 and £23 respectively.
The drinks: Indian wines have been eschewed for European ones, with the restaurant’s wine list having a particular a focus on natural wines from Portugal and Spain. There’s also a new martini menu featuring the likes of a saffron martini made with saffron gin, Cointreau and Martini Bianco; and the Gunpowder espresso martini made with vodka, Kahlua, coffee, amaretto and Baileys.
The vibe: The notion behind the design of Gunpowder is to provide a sense of calm in the bustle of Soho, much like the grand traditional clubs in Delhi provide sanctuary from the busy markets such as Chandni Chowk. The interior of the narrow restaurant features dark wood cladded walls, mirrors that run the length of the dining room, art-deco style light fittings, a traditional black and white chequered floor and a 1950s-inspired dark red marble bar. Seating is by way of bentwood style chairs and banquettes at marble-topped tables, as well as high seating around the bar. To the rear there's a semi private dining space created by the drawing across of a heavy red velvet curtain.
And another thing: Baweja and Seth can’t be accused of not trying out new things on Londoners, although it is with Gunpowder that they have really ignited their passions. Previous attempts have included the excellent Himalayan sharing plates restaurant Madame D and Gul & Sepoy, which served rich dishes inspired by the Raj palace feasts alongside the more rustic cuisine of south-west India, but which both sadly failed to go the distance.
