Uncorked: Milena De Waele
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine...
The first moment I became interested in wine was in the south of France during my first year of kitchen certification. It was two weeks at school and a one week internship in a small restaurant run by the chef and his wife who is a sommelier. She was a true inspiration to me and watching her create a tasting menu with paired wines for valentine’s day was when I completely fell in love.
Tell us about your wine list at Park Row
The wine list at Park Row is a mix between sustainable producer and grande marque as I call them. I really like to touch as many countries as possible and truly believe each of them have unique selling points to show our guests.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
It was during the Covid period and I hadn’t recovered my smell and taste entirely, so I was always asking my assistant to check the wines. It was the end of lunch service and I sent her to eat as I thought no one was going to order more wine. It just so happened that two gentlemen walk in and order a bottle of Sassicaia 2001. I decanted the beautiful wine and gave a little to the gentleman who ordered it, without tasting he told me to pour two larges glasses, but sadly the wine was corked. It was the only time I didn’t let my assistant check the wine and will not do it again!
Name your top three restaurant wine lists (excluding your own!)
Matteo’s at Annabel’s, The Vineyard Hotel at Stockcross, and Sketch.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I think Gerard Basset was for all of us a mentor and a person that we respected even without knowing him.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
Wine from Slovenia in Goriska Brda a white wine made out of Rebula Gialla, a very versatile grape which I wasn’t very familiar with.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Minerality, balance, fruity notes.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment (and why)…
At the moment I’ve selected a Zweiglet from Austria which is a very easy drinking red wine almost without any tannins as we have a lot of fish-based dishes on the menu and I am huge fan of red with seafoods or fish.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Well, I think Riesling with scallops is always my way to go, outstanding acidity to highlight the delicate texture and flavours of the scallops which are served best slightly pan roasted.
Old World or New World?
Very tricky question depends on the moment I will say I cannot choose!
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Dirty glasses.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
At the moment I would say Racines which is a collaboration between Etienne de Montille, Rodolphe Péters and Justin Willet, perfect balance between Burgundy, Champagne and Santa Rita Hills in California. Their wines are just balance elegant and pure.
As a Head of Wine, what question do you most get asked by customers?
It’s definitely, 'where did you buy your glasses'.
Which wine producing region/country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Since starting out in the wine world, the Languedoc Roussillon is always the most underrated. Typically in England it was always chosen as the house wine, which can explain why our guests are not fully aware that there is some of the best wine produced in this beautiful region and not only cheap bottles.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
1999 Meursault 1er cru Perrieres from Coche-Dury will be my last call. I love Meursault and I’ve never tried Coche Dury yet so it will be a dream come true.
