Uncorked: Adrian Castro
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine...
My dad was always interested in wine, we used to go to local bars back home in Spain through my teens where they serve house wine for about 50p a glass. When I started going out with my friends we started to pay attention to the different local wines and regions. It’s a bit of a shame but back in Galicia a lot of people still only drink Ribera del Duero and Rioja, and so the first Mencía I tried (from Bierzo) was a turning point.
Tell us about your wine list at Tapas Brindisa
We champion artisan producers as much as we can. We don’t look for names, we look for honest wines that reflect where they come from. Spain has such a huge variety of styles and the UK market is mostly used to the classics still. We want to try and champion wines from every region. As much as we can we try to work with grower producers.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I was working at Tramshed in Shoreditch (now closed). I went upstairs to the mezzanine. It was Christmas so probably one of the busiest services of the year and people were drinking magnums upstairs. I went to collect the empties and managed to drop three of the bottles down the stairs. The whole restaurant started clapping, I got a standing ovation. Thank god they were empty!
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
The group behind Brawn (in London) and Sargasso (in Margate) do great wine lists. They’re one of the people who we look to for both food and drink in terms of their ethos. Malauva (meaning bad temper (or bad grape literally)), is a great local bar back home in Vigo (Galicia) – it has wines from all over the world and the best of Galicia. Tranga – in Newington Green has a small but ever-changing wine list so every time you go back there’s a cracking new wine to try.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Ben Gubbins, from Vagabond wines – has been in the industry for a long time he’s lovely to chat to and always bringing exciting new wines to the list. David Cañadas from Les Caves de Pyrene and Alvaro de Ribalta from Indigo Wines are both so passionate and knowledgeable about Spanish wine. I have learned much from them over the years.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
Oloroso Viejísimo from Bodegas de la Riva, a very rare 70-80 year old sherry. The volume reduces by 50% in the bottle!
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Good tannins, fruity, and not really a note but ‘perfect for the summer’.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Clos Lojen from Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce in Manchuela (a DO in Eastern Spain). Organic and biodynamic wine, 100% bobal grape from all vines (30 – 50 years old). It’s a pure and elegant wine from a winemaker (Juan Antonio Ponce) who is currently making some of the finest wines in Spain. This is his entry level, but for those who want a step up the Ponce is phenomenal. Although more expensive it’s still very good value for money.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Dry sherry and fish (my favorite is salted anchovies).
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Warm red wine.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment?
Juan Antonio Ponce.
As a wine buyer, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Do you have a Sauvignon Blanc?
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Jerez. There is a new generation of winemakers coming back to the original way of making sherry – protecting native varieties and switching the importance back from the bodega to the vineyard and the soils. The wines they are making are simply outstanding and also still very good value.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I would go back home and have an Albariño from Bodegas Zarate.
