Latest opening: Woven by Adam Smith
What: The relaunch of Berkshire country house hotel Coworth Park’s flagship restaurant. Previously Restaurant Coworth Park, the Michelin-starred space has been completely overhauled, with the name Woven chosen to reflect the restaurant’s ‘organic, multi-layered approach’ to top-end dining.
Who: Coworth Park executive chef Adam Smith. The Ritz alumnus and Roux Scholarship winner has been at the hotel since 2016, attracting a star for its flagship a year or so after taking the reins (he oversees the whole of the hotel's F&B operation, which also includes The Barn and The Drawing Room). With his name now above the door, Woven is a big deal for Smith. It’s not often hotel owners spend big bucks relaunching a restaurant without changing the chef but that’s exactly what Dorchester Collection has opted to do at Coworth Park.
The vibe: A new paint job and a change of sign this is not. Cash has certainly been splashed, with Martin Hulbert - part of Coworth Park’s original design team - brought in to give the space a more contemporary and naturalistic look. Overall it’s a clever bit of design that gives the restaurant its own identity - the previous space blended in with the hotel somewhat - without losing sync with Coworth Park’s wider offering. The space feels more textured and relaxed but still luxe enough to be a Dorchester Collection production with design details including a contemporary light installation that mimics a woodland canopy made from parachute strings, displays of seasonal produce and a 12-cover PDR that brings to mind a very upmarket potting shed.
The food: Woven offers a three course menu that’s bookended by a selection of savoury snacks and sweet ‘Treats’. The approach - essentially a middle ground between a tasting menu and a la carte - works well (the main difference between the £80 lunch menu and the dinner £130 dinner menu is the number of extra snacks and sweets). Smith’s cooking style remains rooted in the classical - he spent nearly a decade under John Williams at The Ritz - but the chef has expanded his culinary horizons to create a more eclectic dining experience. This change of direction is most evident in the snacks, with a number of the dishes having a strong Asian influence including cured seabass with XO sauce with kalamansi and seaweed; and seared A5 wagyu expertly packed into a mini summer roll. The three items chosen by the guest are more classic but not to the extent it jarrs, with options including a neat terrine of chicken served with a rich chicken and artichoke soup; and a decadent but beautifully done main of turbot with lobster, salsify and truffle.
To drink: Woven by Adam Smith has two stunning floor-to-ceiling walk-in wine rooms that guests are invited to peruse (we were even allowed up the ladder that grants access to the higher rungs). The wine pairing (£65 at lunch and £80 at dinner) largely sticks to the classics, but there is a focus on both sparkling and still English wine.
And another thing: Coworth Park is a country house hotel that has something for everyone (those that can afford it, at least) with its blend of equestrian pursuits - it is the only hotel in the UK with its own polo ground - and more conventional five star activities like spa visits and afternoon teas. A hotel that draws from many different parts of the luxury needs broad appeal when it comes to F&B and - with that in mind - Smith has done a fine job of updating Coworth Park’s fine dining restaurant in a manner that won’t frighten the horses.
