Uncorked: Martin Hagen
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I first became interested in wine through my dad. He was a collector of Bordeaux wines, predominantly. This led to many family holidays in South West France and the introduction to lots of fantastic regional wines. We visited places like Madiran, Jurançon, Gaillac and Marcillac, to name but a few. This opened my eyes and gave me an early insight (probably without realising it at the time) into regional grapes and the names of lesser known regions. I was so taken with this part of the world and keen to learn more that I moved out there at 19 to work with a winemaker. I have worked in hospitality for the past 15 years at venues including the Bull & Last in Highgate where I curated the wine list.
Tell us about your wine list at Cave Bristol
Our focus has always been on small producers who will often champion indigenous grapes. We love to showcase smaller and lesser known regions and pick growers who work organically as a minimum. We would fall into the more ‘natural’ category but we try to avoid using the word as much as possible as there is a certain amount of stigma attached to it these days. The fact is most of the growers we work with have always worked like this and it is not a new phenomenon. We like to position ourselves somewhere in the middle right where the sweet spot is. Yes we stock and serve some unconventional wines that will push boundaries but generally they are wines that are made as naturally as possible. That means no chemicals have been used in the vineyard or winery, as little manipulation as possible, and usually unfiltered, but ending up with a product that can appeal to both ‘natural’ wine lovers and ‘conventional’ wine lovers.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I recently opened a bottle of Beck Hartweg, Tout Naturellement (a Muscat, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris-based pet nat from Alsace) for a customer at the bar. The last vintage was incredibly lively, more so than I was anticipating. As I wriggled the cork out, chemistry took over and the bottle proceeded to project its contents over me, the customer and the ceiling. Soaking customers and your bar premises is never ideal but thankfully all saw the funny side.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Bright and Noble Rot in London and Hisa Franko in Kobarid, Slovenia. The latter restaurant’s wine list is 100% Slovenian and 100% exciting.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I think it would be the importers, Vinetrail. They have one of the best portfolios in the country, in my opinion, and have been at the top of their game for 25 years or so. They continue to push the boundaries of discovery and are constantly unearthing new gems. They have wines that challenge convention but are always on the sweet spot, where I like to drink. French focused (but with some amazing wines from Northern Spain and Sicily) they have lots to explore, from top Champagne to lesser known regions with indigenous grapes and terroir at the forefront.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
Hard to pick one but two wines stick in my mind. The first is Oiseau Rebelle from Rousillion and the other would be Ktima Ligas from Pella in Northern Greece.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, racy and structured. They are all ambiguous terms and are overused.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Luis Perez, La Escribana which is around the £28 mark is essentially an unfortified sherry, but it’s still made with the Palomino grape and made under a light layer of Flor. It’s wonderfully savoury, salty and nutty. When you are looking at similar style wines of the same quality like some sous voile wines of Jura, it can really give them a run for their money. Other than that, one of my favourites is from Le Champ d’Orphee, Papilion, Cotes de Tarn IGP, France, 2021. The new vintage has just landed and it’s just as good as the last, if not better. It comes in at around the £18 mark and I just love this wine.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Shellfish. There is nothing better than being sat by the sea with a big bowl of fresh, locally caught, delicious shellfish and a glass of something super crisp and salty in hand. The wines of Augalevada (a winery in North West Spain) have been a go to for me in recent years for occasions like this.
Old World or New World?
Old world. What can I say? I think we are spoiled with amazing wines on our doorstep so this is always my go to. Don’t get me wrong there are some amazing New World producers and I do have a real fondness for South Africa but the Old World is my happy place.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I have two, the first is serving temperature. So often you go out to eat and the white is far too cold or the red is far too warm. The second is glassware. I find it annoying when you go to a nice restaurant and you order a great bottle and you are presented with tiny, unfit for the occasion, wine glasses. There are some wines that just need to be in a bigger glass and it is something that is often overlooked.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
My favourite changes fairly regularly but a producer I have been really impressed with and have enjoyed immensely is Domaine Bohn, which is located in Alsace, about 30 mins south west of Strasbourg. From GC Rieslings to skin contact Sylvaner’s and interesting red white blends made from Pinot Noir infused with Riesling and Pinot Gris. Their wines are incredibly balanced and textural, salty and savoury and electric and vibrant. I am excited to see what happens next at this incredibly dynamic winery.
As a wine expert, wine bar and store owner, what question do you most get asked by customers?
I’m often asked to help with food and wine pairings for example ‘I’m cooking spicy dishes for friends, which wines would you suggest pairing with them?’ Or 'is it organic?'
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Slovenia! It has a really old viticultural history but because it was a part of former Yugoslavia, private ownership of wineries steadily declined in favour of co-operatives which did not have a focus on quality. This really pushed Slovenia out of the mainstream European wine producing countries. Some didn’t let go of their traditions, however, and lots more have been re-discovering their history and they are producing some amazing single variety wines, predominantly focussing on local grapes. There is a long history of skin contact wines, amazingly fresh whites and deep reds and I really think it is a country with huge potential. In terms of regions, the South West of France is still highly underrated. There are so many small AOC’s, regional IGPs and fantastic VDFs in this part of France that lots of people have never come across.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Well it might be cliche, but if it’s my very last meal, I’m going out with a bang and with Champagne firmly in hand. Which bottle of Champagne is where things become a little trickier but I would be very happy with something from Benoit Lahaye, Chartogne Taillet or Vouette Et Sorbee. Santé!
