Uncorked: Alice Bussi
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine...
I grew up in a small mediaeval village in Liguria called Dolceacqua, home to one of the few red wines from the region, Rossese. As children, my friends and I used to help with the foot treading process of crushing the local grapes. It was lots of fun and a very messy job. We were given a glass of grape juice as a reward.
Tell us about your wine list at Hide and Fox
The Hide and Fox wine list reflects the style of our restaurant. From the tasting menus to the drink selection, everything has been carefully chosen. This means that we know and believe in every product we have. We list just over 100 bins, we support local vineyards, and change our selection by the glass and carafe every couple of months to reflect changes on the food menu. Having a small list enables us to rotate the stock more often and keep it interesting both for us and our regular guests.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
When I was a commis sommelier, I had a very unfortunate incident where during a busy service I poured the wrong wine to the wrong guests. They ended up enjoying a blend of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Bordeaux.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Difficult to pin down the bests, however I am always impressed by small, well-designed and well-researched lists that give you interesting choices with value for money wines that can surprise you. Big names and important appellations are easy to add to a wine list but I find the quality of a restaurant’s cellar lies with the choice of their entry-mid priced wines.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
More than a person, I have a huge respect for the real stars, the winemakers. The skills, the time, the commitment of some is really outstanding. Their love is for the grapes, for the winemaking and the respect that they show to creating the final wine.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
At the moment, it’s interesting to talk about skin contact wines. We offer two by the glass, one is a gorgeous Soave Classico. The wine is left on the skins in small ceramic barrels. Elegant, harmonious, and surprisingly approachable.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
By the guests? Pale (in reference to rosé), sweet and fresh. By the sommelier? Mineral, rich and jammy.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Definitely Spanish wines. We have a barrique-fermented Tempranillo Blanco aged in both French and American oak, made with refined wine techniques that is a great alternative to more expensive oaked wines. Monastrell and Mencia are also cheaper options for complex and fruity, spicy wines.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Sushi and sake. I love seafood and I prefer it raw, so high quality sashimi and Daijingo sake must be at the top of the list.
Old World or New World?
An unfair question, depends on the wine. The climate is also changing and offering better conditions to some of the new world countries. If in doubt, I will happily settle for an Italian wine.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When the capsule of the wine is cut above the collar of the neck, instead of below it…
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
Olifantsberg in Breedekloof, South Africa. The winemaker, Elizma Visser, has a wonderful elegance in her wine making, she is young and talented. Her wines are all wonderful, but the Grenache Blanc is something I could drink every day.
As a restaurant manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Why did I leave bella Italia? And of course, our guests are interested in both mine and Allister’s background and why we chose to settle here in Kent.
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment?
Greece, because we haven’t been importing the best wines, but this is now changing. Chile, and areas of the US outside of California are also exciting me at the moment.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I love Nebbiolo. So if I could have handmade tagliatelle with fresh truffle and a bottle of Barbaresco, I’d be happy.
