Uncorked: Ross Trueman
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I would love to say that I have always been interested in wine but I really didn’t know what that meant until I ended up in Bordeaux working for Gordon Ramsay Group, when I was surrounded by acres of vineyards and watching three generations of viticulturists pruning and caring for the vines, right through to the harvesting, pressing, blending and bottling - and then tasting! To see the whole winemaking process in front of me really opened my eyes and set me down the path that I’m on today.
Tell us about your wine list at Furna
I see a lot of wine lists growing all the larger and more comprehensive, and I absolutely commend the guys that put these together, but I just can’t help feeling overwhelmed by them. The focus at Furna was to have a concise list that covers most bases and showcases lesser-known wines from the likes of Austria, Greece, Japan and Lebanon. Our menu changes daily depending on whatever the best produce available happens to be, so having a list that is built around flavour profiles rather than provenance makes us a lot more flexible.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Thankfully I’m yet to have anything truly disastrous happen (at least something wine-related), though I have seriously honed my skills of rescuing some very expensive bottles from disintegrating corks!
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
One of my favourite places is Gordon's Wine Bar - the wine list itself is varied and interesting and the staff are fantastic, but the whole experience of sitting underground with the vaulted ceilings, enjoying some cheese with their late-harvest Tokaji, it’s like stepping back in time. I remember the first time that I saw the cellar at the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux, the vault that holds the wine for Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin-starred Le Pressoir d’Argent. Buried under the hotel, employees had to be marched along by a senior member of staff, signing in at various checkpoints, passing several locked doors, it felt like a scene from Ocean’s 11. And for good reason, there were some wines hidden in there that I don’t believe I will ever see again. Closer to home, I love the ever-changing list at Plateau in Brighton. Admittedly, I do not know enough about natural wines myself but these guys surprise me every time and I’ve really developed an appreciation for this side of the wine scene through them.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
If I had to narrow it down to one individual, I would have to say Jancis Robinson. I know this is a popular answer but she really takes all of her experience and translates it into something that anyone at any level can understand and enjoy. I probably wouldn’t be where I am right now without her writing.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
I’ve just managed to get my hands on some Slovenian dessert wine, Leonardo - passito by Marjan Simčič. Marjan is incredibly proud of his heritage and it very much translates into his wines, made without any botrytis, the wines are a true representation of the local terroir. He hand-picks the ripest grapes and air-dries them for up to seven months before ageing in oak, this wine ticks off about every tasting note you can think of for a dessert wine.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Crisp, clean, minerality - normally used in conjunction. I know this because I have also been guilty of it.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Avaton by Ktima Gerovassiliou, it’s currently the star of our food pairing and I’m crazy for this Greek red. Avaton in modern Greek translates to something sacred and inaccessible, referring to the blend’s majority grape Limnio, believed to be the oldest known grape variety in the world. It carries such historical significance that it is mentioned in the writings of Aristotle and Homer. The Gerovassiliou family is now bringing it back to prove that traditional Greek varietals have a prominent place in modern winemaking.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Absolutely cannot beat crémant and oysters, it’s a tried-and-true pairing and it immediately transports me to sunnier shores.
Old World or New World?
I’m a New World convert.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Empty glasses.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment?
Sugrue South Downs. Ana and Dermot (Sugrue) are fascinating and brilliant winemakers, their passion for proper English wine is infectious and it’s a joy to listen to them talk about their craft. I’ve known them for a while and watched them become, in my opinion, the best producers of English sparkling wine. I’ve even chosen their fascinating Rosé Ex-Machina to kick off our wine pairing at Furna.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
I get lots of customers showing interest in how we pair the wines, especially as our menu changes so regularly, sometimes even between lunch and dinner. I'm very lucky to have a great team behind me and a good working relationship between front and back of house, so we’re constantly tasting and comparing together to find the best match.
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
I would have to go with Greece, they’ve been on the winemaking map for a long time but I don’t believe that they’re given the respect they deserve. There are some real hidden gems out there if you’re willing to do your research..
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I think I would have to come full circle and end where it all began. We currently have a bottle of 1997 Chateau Pavie, St Emilion in the cellar that I reckon would go down quite a treat.
