Uncorked: Terry Kandylis
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I first tasted wine when I was about 14 years old but it didn’t ‘impress’ me to say the least. It was the house wine made by my grandfather. So, for years I wasn’t interested in wine until, when I was working in a restaurant as a student, I accidentally opened a bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé instead of a Pouilly-Fumé. The owner, who was a sommelier himself, made me try both and spoke to me about grape varieties and terroir! I got hooked immediately.
Tell us about your wine list at Bacchanalia and the restaurant’s private members’ club Apollo’s Muse
The wine list at Apollo’s Muse is roughly a 150-bins list. It is not the biggest wine list in terms of references, but a concise list that simply includes some of the best wines ever produced. It has a strong focus on the traditional regions of Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the famous Italian regions of Piemonte and Tuscany, showcasing back vintages and parcels of wines that are extremely rare. In addition, we feature a different winery each month. We host a wine dinner with them and also offer a selection of their wines at retail price.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I experienced an embarrassing moment at an early stage of my career when I tried to open a bottle of sparkling wine that wasn’t properly chilled. The young couple wasn’t particularly impressed with my bottle-opening skills, to say the least.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Noble Rot, Brat and The Ledbury (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
The late Gérard Basset. I was privileged and lucky to meet him in person and interact with him during the sommelier competitions I participated in. He managed to get every single title available in the wine world, was constantly thirsty and eager to learn more and, most importantly, was always humble and approachable.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
The oldest wine I’ve ever tried is a 1728 Pedro Ximénez from Gonzalez Byass and it is by far the most interesting wine I’ve ever had in my life. Not all old wines are great to be honest, but this Pedro Ximénez was something else. Normally Pedro Ximénez is sickly sweet but this one was almost dry on the palate, with a density that resembled honey and a bouquet of chocolate mixed with walnuts and balsamic notes. The length and complexity on the palate was like nothing I had before.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, terroir and seductive.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Elio Sandri, Barbera d’Alba Superiore. I have a soft spot for Italian reds, especially from Piemonte. Barbera might not have the superstar status as a variety like Nebbiolo, but in the right hands can give wines that can truly please the most difficult of wine connoisseurs at a fraction of the price of the famous wines from the region. And Elio Sandri is a traditional producer who takes the utmost care of his vineyards and crafts wines that are truly worth looking for.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I believe that the best pairings are the simple ones, like goat’s cheese and loire whites, or anchovies and Manzanilla. Being from Greece I just love anything from the sea, so the one that has truly spoken to my heart was a deep-fried red mullet with Viña Tondonia Rosado, my favourite rosé wine.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I don’t like when people don’t pay attention to the correct handling of a special bottle and service temperature. It can spoil a special moment.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
Charles Lachaux. He is not only one of the new guns in Burgundy and crafts amazing wines, but his ideas of regenerative agriculture and new ways of farming are a hope that as humanity we can make it and save this planet.
As a head of wine, what question do you most get asked by customers?
People ask me if I drink a lot.
Which wine-producing region/country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Spain, especially Sherry. There is no other region in the world where you can get something that is frequently 10+ years old at such a low price.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I have my own vineyard in Spain. It would have to be one I make myself to remind me of the struggles and the hard work required, rewarding me with the pleasure of tasting the fruit of our labours.
