Flash-grilled: Daisuke Hayashi
What was your first industry job?
After graduating from high school, I immediately became an apprentice at Kikunoi. The first year was spent washing dishes, staff meal cooking, and miscellaneous chores, which is something called ‘Oi-Mawashi’.
If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
A carpenter.
What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Chef-owner Yoshihiro Murata at Kikunoi. Because he is a master who gives me guidance in cooking and life.
What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
I don't have one, because everything has meaning.
What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
I once had a request to make a dish using insects, but I refused it, naturally. I understand that the food issue has been raised globally, I might make it in the future
Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Based on Kyoto-style cuisine, using as little oil as possible, no butter and no cream, and brings out the best of umami flavours.
What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
I don’t recall anything.
Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
Japanese knives.
What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Freshly cooked Japanese plain rice and dried horse mackerel.
À la carte or tasting menu?
I would choose both.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
Kaiseki at Kikunoi.
What’s your favourite fast food joint?
Bottarga pasta is my favourite fast food dish. You can find this in any good Sardinian restaurant.
What’s the most overrated food?
Each person has different values, so I don't think it makes sense to evaluate it.
You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
Nothing. I try not to use butter, cream and oil as much as possible. I always try to accommodate our guests’ request as much as possible so it is difficult to say.
Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
Guests who are interested in culture, arts, and respect all the things. Although he has already passed away, a well-known gourmet, Kitaoji Rosanjin. He was an artist in Japan (March 23, 1883 - December 21, 1959). Until his later years, he was a sculptor, painter, potter, calligrapher, lacquer artist, cook and gourmet.
What’s your earliest food memory?
Japanese rice porridge.
Twitter or Instagram?
I don’t use Twitter, so Instagram.
Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
I would go to the theatre.
What’s your tipple of choice?
Japanese sake. We have two sakes imported exclusively from Japan for our Roketsu drinks menu – Kikunoi and Echigoryu. Both stand out in my opinion.
What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
Japanese sake “Nishi no Seki” in room temperature and sashimi.
What do you consider to be your signature dish?
A simmered variety of vegetables with vegetable paste and dashi jelly.
What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
The Japanese character for 'food' is written to make people better. If you do not have a sense of mission to make people happy through food, you will not be able to continue. When you are young, it is important not to be selective in your work, but to persevere and continue, and to cultivate spirit and perseverance.
