Uncorked: Marie Konecny Dardel
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Since I was a child, I was interested in the catering industry. ged five when dining with my family, I helped the waitress to clear our table after the meal. From the age of 16, I studied catering and I was mainly interested in wine and beverage service. It started as curiosity and shortly after it became my passion.
Tell us about your wine list at the restaurant
It is so impressive, we stock approximately 30,000 bottles and have around 3,000 different reference. There is something for everyone’s taste and preference with so many different regions and countries to choose from.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
When I was still in catering school, we did a wine event in the Rhone Valley for a winemaker. I was really focusing on not dropping any wine, then one of the attendees suddenly sneezed really loudly. It made me jump, and I missed the glass while pouring.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Flocons de sel (in south-east France) is where I worked as an intern, it’s near my hometown Megève. The region is not well-known for its wine, but this restaurant had a great wine selection from local wineries. In London, I like Noble Rot Soho in London and Hedonism Wines. The latter is not a restaurant, but the shop’s selection of wine is outstanding.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Romain Bourger, the wine and beverage director at The Vineyard and my boss. I have known him since I started at The Vineyard and he has contributed hugely to my career by teaching me and sharing his knowledge and passion.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
I try interesting wines every day as part of my job. Often I taste a wine that may not necessarily be well-known, but I still find it interesting due to its vintage or grape variety. One I have is Alazani, Saperavi, Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia, from a country which is still not really noted for its wines.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, juicy and creamy.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
J.Lohr, Petite Sirah, Tower Road, Paso Robles, California. This wine is great value for money at £60 per bottle and it is one of my favourites, deep in flavours, medium body texture with red fruit aromas. I often suggest this wine for Malbec lovers who want to explore Californian wines.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Comté and Vin Jaune.
Old World or New World?
I enjoy both. Being surrounded by Californian wines every day has made me more open minded towards New World wines.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I’m really old school – it is annoying when the foil around the neck of the bottle is not cut properly, and also when a bottle which needs decanting is stored upright.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
David Swift Phinney (from California). I’m always impressed with all his wines, from the ‘8 years in the desert’ Zinfandel to his L’Usine Pinot Noir. His wines are rich, complex and elegant at the same time.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“What is your favourite wine?” My answer is always the same - I don’t have one. I always find this question complicated. It can depend on my mood, occasion or the company I am sharing a bottle with. The world is too big and there are so many wines it’s too hard to single one out. I’m still getting surprised every day.
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment?
Paso Robles in California - it is my favourite region for a full-bodied, concentrate and deep red wine.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A Château Bela Riesling from Slovakia to accompany a dish created by our chef Tom Scade for our tasting menu - Orkney scallops, peas, lovage and celery. The dish is so refined and elegant, every element of it pairs so well with the wine. The minerality of the Riesling and all aromas combined together just makes it really enjoyable.
