Uncorked: Rémy Baben
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I tried a bottle of Saint-Joseph 350m made by David Reynaud Saint-Joseph in a wine bar in Nice, my hometown. I’d just turned 18 and it was the first time I was able to distinguish aromas in wine, green peppercorn for example.
Describe your wine list at Wild Honey St James
It’s not an overly extensive wine list, we have approximately 200 bin which are constantly changing or in rotation. We tend to focus on the quality hidden gems of France and Italy, offering great value for money in our wine list and a good selection of wines available by the glass (22 choices to be exact). It goes without saying that we choose wines that complement our chef Anthony Demetre’s food and can work with his daily changing menu.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
In my early days in Monaco, we were serving a prestigious selection of wines in Enomatic machines for the celebration of 150 years of Société des Bains de Mer. I charged a client for a glass of Mouton Rothschild 2000 when he’d actually enjoyed a whole bottle. My head sommelier was not happy.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
My favourite wine list has to be at Noble Rot. All their sites are great but the Lamb’s Conduit Street restaurant has to remain number one. I love its black board wine menu and the fact that you can order 75ml tasters. Other than that, I really admire the lists at Les Climats & La Tour d’Argent in Paris, or at Portland and Trivet, for something closer to home.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Jancis Robinson - her books on wine are fantastic. We welcomed her to Wild Honey St James in the early days of opening. It was a really special moment. She ordered a Negrette from Fronton, Château Plaisance.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
We recently opened a 1978 Château L’Evangile, Pomerol for a table of six at lunch and it really blew my mind. The notes of tobacco went well with the barbecued short rib of beef we had on the menu that day.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
‘Minerally’ for sure, and also ‘dry’ and ‘interesting’.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
I just came back from Tuscany so at the moment, our Monteregio di Massa Marittima, based on Sangiovese, Cabernet-Franc and Syrah is a real winner for me. I absolutely love it. It’s from 201, has a great structure and also the perfect combination of fruit undertones. It’s just right at this time of year and the game season.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I’m a big fan of steak tartare - I would eat it even days a week, breakfast, lunch and dinner if I could. It matches perfectly with a Cabernet Franc from the Loire.
Old World or New World?
I am French. It has to be Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When someone over-pours your wine just because you’ve ordered a bottle.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
When I was in Tuscany this summer, I visited Antinori winery. Their wines are great, full of rich history from 26 generations of winemakers, and what they’ve brought to their region with their wines is truly fantastic.
As a general manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?
What is ‘I am very specific with my Negroni’? This is our signature Negroni, made with Citadelle gin, Aperol, Dispense Amaro and our own in-house vermouth. We served it straight up and finish it with some savoury bitters.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment
I’d probably have to say Languedoc-Roussillon. The wine world is often dominated by winemakers based on their yield and scale of production, which means that smaller vineyards from lesser known names are sometimes forgotten. Faugères for example, is an appellation d’origine contrôlée producing amazing wines, or similarly, Domaine de la Grange des Peres: a brilliant producer with wines that are very much worth the wait.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A côte de boeuf, over the barbecue with an old Syrah. Maybe an old Vintage of Jamet or Chave. I could easily rest in peace after that.
