Latest opening: The Tamil Crown
What: A pub-cum-Indian restaurant that has launched on the former Charles Lamb pub site on Elia Street in London’s Islington. Like its sister site The Tamil Prince before it, The Tamil Crown can fairly be described as a contemporary reworking of the desi pub concept, which combines the comforts of a backstreet boozer with a drink-friendly menu of South Indian dishes.
Who: The Tamil Crown is a latest venture from former Roti King executive chef Prince Durairaj and ex-Market Halls general manager Glen Leeson. The pair met years ago and chose to join forces following the pandemic. Initially they launched street food concept Tamila at the Hackney Bridge development, and that eventually evolved into The Tamil Prince, which opened last year in Islington, little more than a mile away from The Tamil Crown site. The Tamil Prince has gone on to enjoy notable acclaim in the 18 months since its launch, and was ranked at number 98 on the National Restaurant Awards top 100 list this summer.
The food: Durairaj hails from Tamil Nadu, and his cooking takes plenty of cues from the chef’s home state. Similarly to The Tamil Prince, the menu at The Tamil Crown has a robust, contemporary feel, and is split between small and large serving plates. Portions are generous throughout, and the spicing is considered. Signature dishes to crossover to the new menu include the beef masala uttapam and spicy coconut chutney (£11); lime leaf-roasted chicken with pineapple chutney (£10.50); robata lamb chops (£34); and the Thanjavur chicken curry (£13.50). New dishes, meanwhile, include a Karaikudi crab masala (£28); and a coconut prawn moilee (£16).
To drink: The Tamil Crown drinks list is described as ‘pub classics with Indian accents’. They include a house Tamil draught beer created in partnership with Harbour Beer Co in Cornwall, cask beers from Purity, and a variety of bottled Indian beers. There are also wines supplied by Unchartered Wines, and Indian-spiced cocktails created by the team at award winning neighbourhood cocktail bar Three Sheets in Dalston.
The vibe: Leeson and Durairaj originally envisaged The Tamil Prince to be a pub first and foremost, but the limitations of the site – it only holds around 30 covers in total – mean it now operates primarily as a restaurant space. As such, the pair was keen for their second site to more directly resemble a pub. To that end, the downstairs of The Tamil Crown retains more of a traditional pub atmosphere with bar stools, open fires, sofa seating and a walk-ins only policy that means guests wanting to just stop in for a pint and possibly a snack are able to do so. In contrast, the upstairs dining room has a more formal feel that comes complete with table seating, dark polished woods, intimate lighting, gilded mirrors and a burgundy colour palette.
And another thing: In a neat nod to its desi pub roots, The Tamil Crown is serving an Indian-inspired twist on the roast dinner every Sunday, with options including roasted lamb shank; masala roast chicken; and a banana leaf thali. All roasts are served with Indian and British inspired trimmings - potato and green peas thokku, turmeric roast potatoes, coconut lentil cabbage, mixed vegetable avial, Yorkshire pudding, spiced fried cauliflower, rice, roast carrots and beetroot raita, served with a samabar curry on the side.
16 Elia Street, London, N1 8DE
thetamilcrown.com
