Uncorked: Daniele Arcangeli
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I was born and raised in Tuscany and wine is part of our culture. I became interested in wine when I worked as a bartender and customers asked my suggestions for a wine as aperitif. I didn’t have any clue what to suggest as my knowledge about wine was very poor. I recall finding a bottle of Pedro Ximenez in the fridge - it was extremely dark, deep and concentrated. I threw it away because I thought it had gone off. Then I made the decision to study wine, and the passion was ignited
Describe your wine list at Angler
The list has approximately 300+ references. It’s not a wine bible but it is the result of dedication, study and research, and being mindful that the menus have a fish and seafood focus. There is a great selection of wines by the glass and tailored wine flights that change on a weekly basis, and the list features both big names as well as small artisan producers from emerging wine regions of the world.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Following my early Sherry fall, I served the wrong wine in the wrong glass as I swapped two decanters full of Bordeaux. I couldn’t properly read the name and vintage, as we used to write on a sticker behind the decanter itself. From big fails we learn lessons; now I wear glasses.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence for the huge collection of rare and library vintages. It has one of the most majestic and sought-after wine cellars in the world. My other two are places that I have had the pleasure of working at. 67 Pall Mall, in London, which is noted for the insane number of wines served by the glass; and The Fat Duck for the diversity and number of pairings and wine flights.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
There are many people in the wine world that I respect for what they have achieved. On a global level that would definitely be the late Gerard Basset who inspired plenty of sommeliers around the world. Also, Giuseppe Vaccarini, the Best Sommelier of World in 1978, for his never-ending commitment to promoting the profession in Italy. He has dedicated his life to teaching and coaching young sommeliers. Many Italian sommeliers should be grateful to him for what he has done in his country and for his country.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Vijariego Blanco, a superb white wine from the southern part of Grand Canaria, produced by Bodegas Tameran in the Canary Islands. Its plots of old vines of the native grape variety Vijariego Blanco are situated on volcanic soil at around 600/700 meters above the sea level. The wine has lots of energy and salinity, with a vibrant exotic fruit richness of papaya, pineapple and lychee.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, fruity and crisp. But I sometimes use them myself to describe a wine.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Château Musar, a red wine produced in Bekaa Valley in Lebanon, one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world. It’s an excellent wine with a long ageing potential. At Angler, we are serving the 2017 vintage. It is very elegant.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Seabass tartare, oyster cream, green apple and shiso – it is one of our most popular starters at Angler, and is on our tasting menu matched with an Italian white wine - Massifitti 2018, produced by Suavia, a small artisan producer based in Verona. It is 100% old vines of Trebbiano di Soave from volcanic soil, vinified in stainless steel – it is linear, clean, vibrant, zesty and savoury.
Old World or New World?
Old World - even though I have recently had the pleasure of tasting some great New World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Dirty glassware, stuffy wine service, red wine served warm or, even worse, Champagne not served at the right temperature, and the over pouring of wine in order to push people into buying another bottle.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I’m from Tuscany and love Chianti Classico - some of my absolute favourites are Istine from Radda, Buondonno from Castellina, Le Cinciole from Panzano, Riecine from Gaiole, and Castellin’Villa from Castelnuovo Berardenga.
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
What’s your favourite wine is question that I got asked very often. Or where I come from, as they don’t recognise my accent.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Portugal, Greece and other Mediterranean countries that offer terrific wines at outstanding value. Also, some minor wine producing areas of Spain and Italy that are not well-known outside their own boundaries - for instance, Bairrada, Colares and white Douro in Portugal; Naoussa, Goumenissa or Rapsani in Greece. Bierzo and Valdeorras in Spain. As an Italian, I would be keen to add some new listings of outstanding appellations such as Lugana, Colli di Luni, Rossese di Dolceacqua or Fiano di Avellino.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Give me a big slice of warm focaccia with mortadella di Bologna, a bit of extra-virgin olive oil and a bottle of Clos de Mesnil 1996, and you make me the happiest sommelier on earth. This iconic champagne is the embodiment of Chardonnay and a legendary vintage - probably one of the best wines I have ever tasted in my life.
