How I Got Here: Graham Hornigold
Why restaurants?
Why not?! But seriously, hotels started to lose the pastry sections and were harder to staff, they also for a time lacked the excitement and energy of restaurant service. However, some hotels are now having a renaissance – I love the pastry at The Dorchester.
Tell us something you wish you had been told at the start of your career?
Always cut off the fat, and only try to control what you can. This would have saved a lot of stress in my early years as a pastry chef, striving for perfection.
What’s your favourite restaurant or group of restaurants?
Hawksmoor – great steaks, sides, and amazing desserts.
What motivates you?
Tomorrow, it’s not guaranteed, but if you get it, you’ve got shit to do!
What time do you wake up?
6am, then 7am, then 8am!
Coffee or tea?
Black coffee, always.
How often do you check your email?
Every time it pings.
How do you let off steam?
Night driving and curating Spotify playlists.
Do you prefer a night on the tiles or a night on the sofa?
The sofa.
What’s your signature dish to cook at home?
A roast or fish pie.
Favourite holiday destination?
New Zealand, India, and Hawaii (Northshore).
What was your dream job growing up?
A graphic designer.
Which colleague, mentor or employer has had the biggest influence on your approach to the restaurant business?
Didier Souillat, CEO of Time Out Market, and formally COO of Hakkasan Group. He’s a great leader, mentor and, most importantly, friend.
What's been your best business decision?
Starting up on my own. I now run Longboys alongside Smart Patisserie, and Smart Collective – watch this space!
What piece of advice would you give to those looking to climb the rungs in the business?
Mind your panel! Concentrate on your job so the business as a whole is infinitely more successful.
If you could change one thing about the restaurant industry today, what would it be?
The long hours mentality. You shouldn’t just be expected to work for the sake of working. So many good people have left the industry from being burnt out and abused, from systems and regimes who take pride in bleeding people for their passion.
Bio
Born in Germany, Hornigold studied international culinary arts at the University of West London before starting in hospitality as a pastry sous chef for the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. Later roles included being executive pastry chef for The Lanesborough; and group executive pastry chef for the Hakkasan Group. In 2018, he launched Smart Patisserie, an international pastry, kitchen and hospitality consultation providing training and product development. He also helped launch Longboys in the same year, which now operates four sites across London.
