Uncorked: Charles Carron Brown
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I studied Hospitality Management at university, but quickly realised that uni life wasn’t for me, so I left and got myself a position in a hotel called The Kings Arms at Charlton Horethorne in Dorset. It was after a busy day that the restaurant manager passed me a glass of wine (it was a 2006 Spice Route Winery, ‘Chakalaka’, Swartland, South Africa), and from that moment on my mind was transfixed on how good wine could taste. The wine was bold, rich, spicy, and full of super ripe opulent fruit. I wanted to learn more. I discovered that my godfather (Kit Stevens) was an MW, and a good friend of his Steven Spurrier (the famed British wine merchant) agreed to become my first mentor. He suggested taking some WSET courses, to which I did, and well the rest is history.
Tell us about your wine list at Aulis
The wine programme at Aulis London features producers who share our ethos across Simon Rogan’s Umbel Restaurant Group of organics/biodynamics and regenerative viticulture. Many are promoting minimalist interventions in their practices. We offer two different wine pairings alongside our menu. Both consist of six different wines which can swap and change as the menu itself changes. I feel this is the best way to offer these styles of wines to our guests and to introduce them to wines that they might not have visited before.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I've had a fair few, but none I'd like to mention here!
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Noble Rot and Soif in London and Aska in New York.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I wouldn’t say I have any one person who I respect in the world of wine. I enjoy learning about what various producers and sommeliers are up to each day and respect people who are willing to be bold in their choices.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
There have been many over the years. I remember tasting a delicious Counoise (an obscure red grape that’s most associated with the Rhône) from a winery called Benevolent Neglect in California a few years back which was super tasty. It’s a medium bodied red, filled with aromas of red currants, cranberries, black pepper, and this deliciously crunchy texture. I’m a big fan.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
I like this wine because it’s ‘smooth’ is one I often hear.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Oh, it has got to be the Rabigato, Folias de Baco, from the Douro (2021, £49). At 11.5% abv and biodynamic, this wine is terrific. It spends six months on its lees after fermentation and is dry, medium bodied and zesty. It has great balance and this almost creamy acidity. We use it on one of our wine pairings. I love that it has a low abv yet packs a punch for what you get.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I love drinking skin contact/orange wines with Marmite on toast. It’s super tasty.
Old World or New World?
I feel both the Old and New World have amazing producers that deserve to be drunk and enjoyed. I love them both.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Making hospitality more complicated than it needs to be. Keep things simple and straight-forward, focus on engaging with your guests and making them feel welcome, remember to take your ego out of the equation. It’s their experience, not yours.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
It’s always hard to say, sommeliers always have their favourites – however I love what Christoph Heiss is doing with the Malinga Wines at the moment. The wines are always showing well, but his 2020 Vogel Und Meer is outstanding. We have in on one our pairings at Aulis at the moment. I love the dry yet fleshy character of the Sauvignon Blanc/Welcshriesling blend that has seen around 12 days’ worth of skin contact before being aged on its lees for a further 12 months in old oak. My kind of wine – fresh, fragrant, and seriously fun, and a great food pairing.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
I get asked two questions a lot. ‘What is your favourite bottle of wine, money no object?’ and ‘what do you like to drink on your days off/evenings off’. Both are perfectly valid questions, but yeah, I get asked them nearly every single day.
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
There are so many to choose from, but Austria in general offers terrific value for money when you compare it to the likes of Burgundy. Whites made from Grüner Veltliner & reds made from the likes of Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch are super tasty, fresh and fun.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
It would be from the Loire Valley for sure. It’s a region I’ve been in love with for many years now and have visited more than any other. If I could get my hands on a bottle of an older vintage of a Clos Rougeard, Les Poyeux. That is the real essence of what Cabernet Franc can offer. One can dream, I guess.
