Uncorked: Maria Boumpa
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Wine was part of my upbringing, as my family owns a very small plot of vines in Metsovo (in Greece) and my father makes his own wine year after year, but mostly for our own consumption. I have been working in hospitality for quite a few years, always on the floor so I’ve worked alongside the wine and drinks service. In 2017, I did an internship in Copenhagen at a Michelin-starred restaurant which helped me understand the necessity of a great wine list and how it can enhance guests' experience of a restaurant, whilst also being an important revenue source. So in 2018, I took the first WSET courses in Greece, leading me to London, the Mecca of wine, which is where my real wine journey began.
Tell us about your wine list at Da Terra
At Da Terra, our wine list features a collection of classics as well as low intervention wines from the lesser-known regions. We cater for most guests' preferences, but the main aim is to select wines that complement the complexity of Rafael Cagali’s food. Our blind tasting menu is inspired by Rafael’s Brazilian and Italian heritage so it leaves space to experiment with our wine pairing. We like to introduce guests to something fresh by featuring wines from lesser-known regions, grapes and styles.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Luckily, no major issues so far. But I’m always afraid of dropping one of our decanters with a very expensive wine in it.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Noble Rot’s list is my ultimate favourite, the list is dynamic with a regularly changing offering by the glass. Trivet also has a great list, the format is unique and a history lesson itself that transports you back in time. Selene restaurant in Santorini is also impressive.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Konstantinos Lazarakis, who was the first MW in Greece, he initiated wine education in Greece and has been a milestone for my wine career. Yiannis Karakasis (another Greek MW) internationally raised the profile of Greek wines by establishing 50 Great Greek Wines, so he is another inspiration.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
Terry Kandylis kindly introduced me to the Unicorn Wines from Clos Joliette in Jurançon – people hear about them but never see them. The wine comes from a very small plot in Chapelle De Rousse in the Pyrenees foothills, planted in 1929 with 100% Petit Manseng, the grapes are picked and vinified at different times selectively, and then aged in oak barrels for 4-6 years before being bottled. Each bottle is completely different, varying in styles which can only be identified by the colour of the capsule.They are very inconsistent, but that’s the beauty of them.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Floral, mineral and balanced.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
A Riesling and Chardonnay from Winnica Turnau, in Poland. Both are reasonably priced and have a great texture and finesse to them, the flavour is unusual and not what you might expect from a Riesling and Chardonnay. I like to introduce guests to unexplored territories, Polish wine is a great example of this.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
We serve a dish at Da Terra called the Romeo & Juliette which is a goat's cheese and guava flan - I like to pair this with Gonzalez Byass Apostoles 30 (a rare Palo Cortado Sherry).
Old World or New World?
Depends on the occasion. I appreciate the tradition behind Old World winemaking but in the New World, there are less strict regulations, so there is much more potential for experimenting with varieties and techniques that give unlimited styles of wine.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
My sparkling wine not being topped up, especially if the ice bucket is left far away from the table.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
Claus Preisinger, a biodynamically-certified winemaker from Burgenland (in Austria). He combines Georgian amphorae and skin contact in the wine production. Claus keeps his vineyard and cellar intervention to a minimum, but makes the indigenous grapes shine through. The name of the wine has so much character, who else in the wine world would have the courage to call their wine Fruit Loops or “Sunny Cide Up”.
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
After 'can you explain the wine pairing?' the most common question I get is 'where is your accent from?'. People find it hard to guess I am Greek.
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Greece, there is so much more than Assyrtiko and Xinomavro. The combination of the influx of young people entering the wine industry and the growing popularity of 50 Great Greek Wines will encourage restaurants to champion the lesser-known regions and grapes internationally.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Nothing can beat a Vintage Champagne. Probably one from the 1993 Vintage, well-developed, textured, with notes of ripe citrus, honey, brioche, yeast, mushroom and dried herbs. That would make me really happy!
