Uncorked: Vincenzo Arnese
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Wine has always been a big part of my life and I have very fond memories of wine during my childhood (in Italy). I remember very clearly when my grandfather gave me the first taste of his homemade wine at the age of five. I started to become actively interested in wine when I worked as a commis sommelier at The Waterside Inn. Diego Masciaga (the general manager at the time) assigned me to the sommelier team - which sparked my curiosity about the world of wine. The head sommelier there always challenged me with different questions, so researching and studying became a pleasant routine.
Describe your wine list at Raffles London at The OWO
At Raffles London at The OWO I will be responsible for putting together and maintaining an international wine list of around a thousand labels. Due to the historical importance of the building we decided to use historical insight to organise our wine list; dividing wines from former countries that were then British territories (British Trade Route Wines) from those traded with other nations (Global Trade Route Wines). The list has also been designed to support our commitment to supporting biodiversity and sustainability. We believe that eco-friendly practices and initiatives are to protect the environments in which we and others live, to maintain our quality of life as human beings, the diversity of life on earth, and the planet’s ecosystems. Therefore, we decided to highlight wineries and estates that are following sustainable practices.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I once gave a guest a Champagne shower - and he didn’t even win the Formula 1! I still feel ashamed about that.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
I like the wine lists at Medlar, Cabotte and Core by Clare Smyth (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Prominent sommeliers in Britain and Italy, like Ronan Sayburn, Enrico Bernardo and the late Gerard Basset. I would also like to mention Stefan Neumann for has tremendous creativity, Matteo Montone for his incredible consistency and dedication and finally Claire Thevenot for her capacity to discover incredible winemakers.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Recently I discovered the 2022 still Rosé from Gusbourne estate, which has an incredibly floral and fruit intensity on both the nose and palate, and showed a long lingering acidity yet a creamy and round texture.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral when used without a defined contest. I believe that word should always be associated with some extra description to define the flavour, like wet stone mineral for example. Character is simply used to introduce an aroma or flavour, the risk is to use it constantly. Crispy is used too frequently without qualification.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
I truly believe our Raffles London Champagne pour is a great addition and value to our wine list, we will serve Louis Roederer’s Collection 243, an introduction to the Louis Roederer champagne estate that shows its incredible quality and complexity.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
There is no one in particular, I like to experiment and discover unique combinations. It is important that the wine is integrated with the food and lift the unicity of the dish. It’s also essential that the finish between the two is balanced, elegant and has the right intensity.
Old World or New World?
I think concepts of Old World and New World wines are dated – particularly now that increases in quality winemaking practices and climate change have made everything more even. The beauty of wine is that you can always be surprised and amazed.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I am usually open-minded on diversification of service, I like to find innovation and see different styles but I am always suspicious of those who pour huge glasses of wine, I like to have enough room to swirl the wine. It also gives me the impression of someone that doesn’t want to come back to my table to top up my glass.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I love the quality and purity of the Chenin Blanc from Domaine les Pierres Ecrites (in the Loire Valley).
As a director of wines, what question do you most get asked by customers?
We do a fascinating job that requires a lot of study and it’s specialised, guests are curious about different wines and regions, they are willing to discover more but they want guidance. Most of the questions are about wines that they want to purchase, and they ask for advice on vintage and prices.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment
Greece has a new and interesting new wave of more modern and refined producers, especially white wines. Local grapes varieties are getting more recognisable but the consumers and prices are very competitive. Grapes like Assyrtiko or Malagousia are capable of producing stunning wines.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
More than the wine I hope on my last meal I will have around the people that I care and hopefully, we can all enjoy a 1928 Champagne Salon. Salon always impresses me with its incredible quality and long-standing finish, and 1928 is a legendary vintage for the Champagne region.
