Uncorked: Paul Morgan
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Parents dinner parties in the 70s. Campari, vermouth and medium Rieslings that were all mischievous treats to taste when the adult's backs were turned. Then a serious bottle of Morgon Cru Beaujolais - the producer escapes me but the wine was delicious - when I was an apprentice chef enjoying a special dinner in the restaurant I worked in Wales.
Tell us about your wine list at Fourth and Church
We offer a daily-changing list of wines that we enjoy drinking. We use many many suppliers and try and always be a little different, steering away from the big-ticket bottles with a lean towards sherry, leftfield Spain, Italy and lots of German Riesling. The latter is a growing obsession for me and my business partner and chef Sam Pryor: Fourth and Church Fourth was recently named the nationwide on-trade winner of the #31 Days of German Riesling campaign for 2022.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
A personal disaster occurred following a visit to Alsace. I returned with some very nice bottles that were added to a wall mounted wine rack in the cellar of a house we rented at the time. It was just before Christmas, and I had added several more bottles in anticipation of a wonderful festive break. In hindsight, I should have taken more note of the wall fixings as whilst at work I received a phone call from my very stressed wife informing me that she was ankle deep in broken glass having lost around 30 bottles from my modest but super-interesting collection of bottles.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Auberge de l’Ill (in Illhaeusern, Alsace). I have a soft spot for Alsace wines and this list is just so very special if you want to dig deep into the region. La Carbona (in Jerez). An amazing selection of Sherry from El Marco de Jerez and beyond. Such brilliant choice and value by the glass, including rarities. This must be followed up by a visit to the Casa del Jerez on Calle Divina Pastora, to decide what to bring home, whilst tasting en rama fino from the casks in the shop. (Andrew Edmunds (in Soho). Always some great options to drink well in central London, never any fuss, just lovely lunches.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Beltrán Domecq, he’s a true gentleman and ambassador for the wines of Jerez. A font of knowledge and a fascinating man to talk to.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
As a passionate Sherry drinker, I’m super excited to have been given a bottle of Raya Cortado from Bodega Yuste. It’s a single cask Oloroso that, over the hot summer of 2022, developed a veil of flor, which is unheard of in the production of Oloroso. It’s a very rare occurrence that is still being explored! I haven’t tasted it yet but will open it with a couple of my likeminded colleagues.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Creamy and reductive. Not a tasting note as such but I’m also sick of conversations about residual sugar.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Some great wines from Gattinara (in Piedmont). If you enjoy Nebbiolo there are some fantastic wines at a fraction of the price of Barolo.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Ice cold Manzanilla on a hot day alongside the best tortillitas de camarones, always at Casa Balbino on Plaza del Cabildo in Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Old World or New World?
I keep an open mind to everything.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Not reading the customer, understanding budget, tastes and comfort levels. If you get this wrong, it’s really disappointing. If you get it right, the journey begins.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
We enjoy the various chenin blanc cuvees from Domaine François Chidaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire. He produces many different styles that suit all kinds of food pairings or are just delicious on their own.
As a restaurant owner, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Is it dry? Is the rose pale?
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
Greece. Some world class wines at all price points, the learning is interesting with difficult pronunciations.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I think it may need to be something like a Niederhauser Hermannshohle, Auslese from Weingut Dönnhoff with some age, I recently was lucky enough to try the 2010 vintage which was so layered and complex. As it is my last meal I’d have some foie gras and a lightly poached Comice pear with it, too.
