Uncorked: Steph Robertson
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I studied wine while doing my Hospitality Management Diploma and was hooked. I had an incredible opportunity to work at a Le Gavroche a commis sommelier early in my career. I only had a small amount of knowledge and had to learn on the move. It was fantastic and thrilling but of course challenging, I haven’t looked back since.
Describe your wine list at Restaurant Associates
Our wine list is split in to a few parts from House Proud to Fine Wines to our Wonderful World of Wine (where I can have a little ‘out there’ fun) to make it easy for our teams and guests to navigate. There is something for everyone. Each wine is tasted because it is the wine in the bottle that matters. Each wine must have a sustainability angle too, not just organic/biodynamic but actually do good for the environment or local community.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I once served a slightly corked bottle of vintage Champagne to a very senior team member from the actual Champagne house! I opened it, tasted it and thought ‘I think something might be wrong but no it is okay’ and served it. From that moment I learned to trust my nose, palate and gut feeling when it comes to wines.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Medlar, Noble Rot and Brat (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
There are too many to name here. That is what is so fantastic about the wine world it is so large and so many different areas of expertise from viticulturists to wine makers to educators and more. If I have to name one it would be my first head sommelier, David Galetti. He taught me so much about wine, service and resilience.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
This past week I had a bottle of Tselepos Mantinia Classic 2022 (from Greece’s Peloponnese region). Made with the Moschofilero grape, it was brilliant and different and had a slight blush to it.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Flabby, linear and legs. None of those are sexy or emotive.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Our exclusive label Bolney Wine Estate, North Downs Cuvee NV. Wonderfully bright with a whole load of toasted brioche, it is a great expression of English sparkling wine at a great price. And you can only find it in our venues.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
NV Champagne with fried chicken.
Old World or New World?
New World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Somms always going for the highest priced wine when recommending. There is even more art in finding amazing value for money. Also, you usually get more interesting wines at the lower priced part of the list.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
SC Pannell from McLaren Vale in South Australia. Their work with the environment and rewilding project has meant that native Australian orchids have started to grow wildly. And their wines are fab – really true to their terroir and doing exciting things with Shiraz. It’s not your typical big and heavy Aussie shiraz.
As a head of wine, what question do you most get asked by customers?
‘What do you recommend with this dish?’ , ‘Isn’t red/white too heavy/light’. I love pairing food and wine together while making sure the matches work for the guests personal taste too.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Greece. They have a huge variety of local grapes and some really exciting wines are coming from there and it is gaining momentum.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Meerlust Rubicon 2003, Stellenbosch, South Africa. It has to be 2003, you can’t buy it anymore, but it has an emotional connection to me not only because it was a great vintage but I have shared a few bottles with friends and family through the years so it will bring back some memories for me.
