Uncorked: Jason Bligh
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I grew up in Ibiza. At 17 I attempted catering college in Broadstairs. It was a shock to the system to say the least. So, a year later in 1997, I moved up to Chester. For reasons I’ll never know, I was employed as a commis waiter at the Chester Grosvenor Hotel’s then Michelin-starred The Arkle restaurant. It was right here, with its extensive wine list, that I realised, the horrible, alcoholic, dry, red coloured grape juice my parents used to drink, was in fact fascinating.
Describe your wine list at Upstairs at the Grill
The Grill is a Manhattan and Brooklyn-inspired steakhouse. Therefore, the list requires big, bold wines to cut through the heavily marbled steaks. I build my wine list around the food, but more importantly around our guests. I like them to tell me what style of wine they like, not the other way around. With this in mind, I have always been a huge fan of Californian wines. Not only do they pair perfectly with our steaks, but they require very little breathing once opened, meaning guests enjoy the wine from the very first sip. We have a large selection of low production, rare Californian wines, an eclectic mix of vintage Champagnes as well as many European and New World classics.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I will never forgive myself for placing a bottle of 1988 Dom Ruinart, Blanc des Blancs, in the freezer so that I could chill it quicker. The guest then opted for a different Champagne, I forgot about it and the cork exploded. Not only has the guilt never subsided of wasting such a stunning wine, but I quickly learned that fine wine should be treated with respect.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
I was lucky enough to be invited to become a member of The Champagne Academy in 2005 and had the pleasure of meeting Xavier Rousset at a week-long Champagne masterclass. Whenever I visit London, I enjoy visiting his Comptoir restaurant in Mayfair and The Black Book in Soho. Last but not least, The Black Swan at Olstead. Not only do I rate it as the finest one-star Michelin in the country but the wine list, especially the huge ‘by the glass’ selection, is both great value and impressive.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Simon Stockton, Charles Heidsieck’s brand development manager. It’s not just about the wine for me, it’s about hospitality and how you support and integrate with the community. Simon couldn’t be more of an ambassador for Champagne, he lives and breathes it. However, he is also passionate about getting people together, which I believe is a key role in an industry where time is scarce.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Vintage Amarone. It upsets me that I only discovered it in recent years. I recently tasted the 1997 Vajo Dei Masi (sadly, it was just a taste!) and it was one of those moments when you realise why you love wine, so complex and unbearably moreish.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Fruity, crisp and herbaceous.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
For me, it’s a Champagne, Charles Heidsieck, Brut Reserve (£85). I visited Charles Heidsieck for the first time in 2005 and I’ve never looked back. The blend has up to 50% reserve wines, making it excellent value for money.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I have two. They are both classic parings, but that’s why they are classic. The first sunny day in spring I have an urge to jump in the car and dart along the North Wales coast to satisfy my craving for fresh Anglesey Menai oysters with an ice-cold glass of Picpoul De Pinet. The other one is from my days working in The Arkle: Pan-seared foie gras with a glass of Sauternes.
Old World or New World?
For me it’s like music. It depends where I am, who I’m with and what I’m doing.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Unfortunately, there are many. The worst one is when your requests are pushed aside and you’re recommended a wine that suits the palate of the sommelier. Then there is the lack of engagement. If you dine in a restaurant with an extensive wine list, I find it very sad when the sommelier doesn’t engage. I believe part of our chosen profession is to educate our guests (if they want to be educated) and to make them feel valued if they are adventurous with their wine choices.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Floris Lemstra, Chateau Canet in the Languedoc. Mischievous, passionate, respected, innovative, progressive, competitive. Ultimately produces outstanding quality wines (whilst having a lot of fun along the way) that are excellent value. Our team and guests adore them.
As an owner and sommelier what question do you most get asked by customers?
What do you drink? My answer: Not natural wine!
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Lodi, California.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
An older vintage of Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California. The best of both worlds, a Bordeaux-blend from Napa.
